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I’m finally getting my trip to Uruguay (subverted 3 years ago by the OH who decided Paraguay was a better birding destination) and would appreciate any advice, particularly with regard to car rental, or recommendations.
The idea was to collect a car at MVD, drive a circular route thru Colonia, Paysandu, Lunarejo, then down through the eastern wetlands finishing in Montevideo. Is it possible to have different pick up and drop off locations?
We hope to stay in a combination of estancias, bodegas with accommodation (wine drinking is quite important) and non-chain hotels.
Thanks
Yes. I rented from Sixt in Colonia and dropped at MVD with no extra charge. I note you’re going for non-chain but If anyone reading this stays at the HGI then it’s midway between MVD and Sixt downtown, so I’d recommend dropping back at MVD and getting an Uber to the HGI otherwise you’ll just be sitting in downtown traffic.
Roads are great outside Montevideo, quiet and good surfaces.
There are road tolls around the country and the car comes with a tag so you sail straight through. I was due to return my car 10am Tuesday but I dropped it 4pm Monday and they guy let me off the tolls which was unbelievable service. Also had a huge upgrade from a Renault Logan (uggh) to an automatic Nissan SUV. So will highly recommend Sixt for Uruguay, both locations were excellent.
Colonia, I stayed at Posada El Capullo which was fine, had a rustic charm. You can also park on the street outside for free. 20% Cback via TCB/Hotels.com when I made my reservation.
Also if you’re after a walking tour, have a look at Guruwalk and look for the one by Oscar. He’s Cuban and has migrated to Uruguay and we did a private tour in the rain after nobody else turned up. Lovely guy.
It was a couple of decades ago now, but our
highlight by far was Cabo Polonio.We stayed in Posada Plaza Mayor in Colonia last year, which I would describe as a cross between French country (stone walls) and Marrakesh Riad (central fountain and courtyard). Great hosts and would stay there again. However I might be biased as it reminded me of our house in France so felt homely for us.
Carmelo, about an hour from Colonia is a lovely rather sleepy town on the river. The Finca Narbona has become a bit chi-chi from much humbler beginnings but does make very good wine and cheese as well as offering very comfortable accommodation. It’s probably rather amateur for professional bird watchers, but we went for a bird watching walk in the estancia and then kayak trip along the river ending at the bridge by Finca Narbona which we loved as we saw so much. The 24hr noise of the ubiquitous teros is extraordinary.
The nearby bodegas of Cerros de San Juan and Irurtia both make excellent wine and offer food, but I don’t think wine. The former has the better setting, Irurtia may have the better wines. Both are incredibly charming and informative.
When I was there I used a local car hire company, Multicar, good friendly service, and was able to collect from downtown and drop at the airport.
In Colonia you could consider Charco, at least for eating if not lodging.
The coast/beaches are amazing. Appreciate you may not be looking for that type of hol, particularly based on your route, but as mentioned above Cabo Polonia is definitely worth a visit (hippie/off-grid town that requires a 7km ride on a ATV/bus across the dunes.) Also Punta del Diablo, La Paloma & La Pedrera (chilled out holiday beach towns.)
Thanks everyone for all the ideas and suggestions
Uruguay doesn’t have any endemic birds so it’s not intended as a hardcore birding trip; we may find a few we’ve not seen before in South America and the idea of simply walking around estancias and enjoying nature sounds lovely. As does trying out the Tannat wines; pity the OH is doing the driving and can’t even have a sip!
Tannat wines; pity the OH is doing the driving and can’t even have a sip!
I’m sure he can pick some Tannat up at a supermarket and drink it in the evening. I went through plenty. It’s nearly as nice as Saperavi in Georgia.
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