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Review: GWR’s Pullman Dining – the last proper meal on Britain’s railways

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This is our review of Great Western Railway’s Pullman Dining service from Plymouth (in my case) to London Paddington.

I arrived in Plymouth on Great Western Railway’s Night Riviera Sleeper very early – before 6am – and spent the entire morning sightseeing, which is very interesting if you are into all things maritime. I reviewed the Night Riviera Sleeper here and reviewed the Paddington First Class Lounge here.

GWR had booked me on the Pullman Dining train back to London. Tickets for both trips were provided by GWR for review purposes.

Review GWR's Pullman Dining

What is Pullman Dining?

Pullman Dining is virtually the only restaurant-style (and restaurant-priced) meal left on the standard UK rail network.

The only thing that comes close, if you don’t count the Caledonian Sleeper, is the Premier Service offered by Transport for Wales on trains between Cardiff and Holyhead and Cardiff and Manchester. I might put this on my list for next year!

Pullman Dining operates Monday to Friday on six trains:

  • 13.03 Paddington to Plymouth
  • 19.04 Paddington to Plymouth
  • 17.48 Paddington to Swansea
  • 13.15 Plymouth to Paddington
  • 18.16 Plymouth to Paddington
  • 12.23 Swansea to Paddington

First Class passengers can book a seat to dine up to one hour before departure. Standard Class passengers can eat if space is available – you are effectively getting a free upgrade to a First Class seat along with your meal!

The cost is £38 for a two course meal and £46 for three courses.

My Pullman Dining experience

I was booked on the 13.15 from Plymouth. The Pullman Dining car was part of First Class, at the front of the train.

The train started its trip in Plymouth and was ready for boarding a bit ahead of time. I was advised to sit in First Class until the dining coach was ready, at which point the staff would call us over. This happened roughly 15 minutes after the train had departed.

The Pullman Dining coach is half kitchen and half normal First Class seating, but with the tables set for eating.

On the day I travelled there were four tables set for one person and two for four people. I had a reservation but some passengers did not and had decided spontaneously to dine when they discovered seats were available.

The staff told me that they can do up to 20 covers per train, using the next First Class coach for spillover if necessary. The staff also mentioned that Taunton is the last stop for diners to come on board on this service, although the GWR website says Exeter St Davids. If you are travelling from London you must board no later than Reading.

This was my table:

Review GWR's Pullman Dining

This is a table set for four but only used by a couple:

Review GWR's Pullman Dining

The table cover is simple but well done with a white paper table cloth. The journey between Plymouth and Exeter is especially scenic and sitting at a laid out table awaiting good food was quite a treat.

Review GWR's Pullman Dining

Here is the menu for my journey – click to enlarge. There were three starters, four mains and two desserts on offer plus a selection of regional cheeses. Besides the wine list there were also spirits such as Tarquin’s Handcrafted Cornish Gin for £8 and a number of soft drinks. Bottled water is complimentary.

Review GWR's Pullman Dining

I took a shot of the galley with the skilled chef at its helm, skilled not only at cooking but balancing too!

Review GWR's Pullman Dining

The meal started with complimentary warm bread rolls of different varieties. For my starter I had Sumac roasted pumpkin with pomegranate, hummus and coconut yoghurt. It was delicious and looked appetizing too.

Review GWR's Pullman Dining

For my main I chose prime 6oz Oxfordshire fillet steak (£15 additional cost) cooked ‘well done’. It came with parsley butter, beef fat chip, tenderstem broccoli and cabbage and peppercorn sauce and, with mine, Dijon mustard. The broccoli was a bit soft but the steak was perfect and overall it was very tasty.

Review GWR's Pullman Dining

As dessert I had apple and blackberry crumble. The hot custard was hand-poured by the waiter and I like my crumble ‘drowned’!

Review GWR's Pullman Dining

The meal finished off with complimentary tea and a mint chocolate:

Review GWR's Pullman Dining

Conclusion

I had a really enjoyable journey from Plymouth to Paddington and arrived feeling very content. The food was very good quality, and with two courses at £38 and three courses at £46 I thought it was fairly priced, although my steak came with a £15 surcharge.

It is definitely something worth trying if you are heading to or from the West Country. For anyone used to regular First Class catering on the long-haul British rail network, it’s a revelation and I would definitely do this again. Give it a go whilst you can.

Comments (76)

  • TimM says:

    I would have expected one of the Great British cutlery patterns, with hollow-handled knives, on Great Western Railway.

  • cin4 says:

    Unfortunately the food is woeful, as bad as biz aircraft food despite having a proper kitchen on board.

    The chicken and fish are both dry and overcooked (here sous vide to 60C and 50C respectively would make more sense for catering purposes) and the parfait just low quality stuff off the shelf.

    The chefs don’t have any basic training about conditions for maillard so, despite being given a sous vide steak that’s hard to mess up, you get a poor crust due to high smoke point fat and incorrect internal temperature (although obviously cooling it well done also doesn’t help).Veg is massively overcooked even by 1980s UK standards.

    The desserts are worse than a standard supermarket Gu pot or the sort of bottom of barrel pre selected cheese packs people. Who don’t like cheese buy.

    • CY says:

      You must have been on different trains to me as I have had fantastic food multiples times coming home from Paddington.

  • Barrel for Scraping says:

    Bottom of the barrel 😂

    I’ve not tried it since their new trains were introduced. It feels like the new trains with their bright lights and cheap looking furnishings give more of an ambiance of works canteen than top class restaurant. When it was operated on their older HST services until around 2018 it was a much nicer experience. Leather seats, less harsh lighting, even specially designed Pullman branded crockery.

    I wonder if all the good chefs left GWR after covid as it took a while for the service to resume. The broccoli does look overcooked in the picture.

    Not mentioned here is how the steak was served. It used to be silver service style. You would get your plate and then the waiters would come round with trays of vegetables so you could select what you want.

    The review here still looks good for a train, but not as good as before covid and certainly not as nice an experience as the old trains. I doubt the days of true quality dining on trains will ever return

    • Kowalski says:

      In UK I’m sure you’re right, those days won’t return. Thankfully in some other countries it still exists

  • Tim says:

    Nothing beats eating on a train, but I don’t understand how this service makes any sense commercially. In the space of the kitchen, you could fit in and sell 40 extra seats. And although the Restaurant is only on a handful of trains every day, the kitchen is fitted to every single train including those doing shorter distances like Bristol-London, where all that is needed is a space to store a trolley.

    And this is on rolling stock that doesn’t where space is optimised everywhere else with seats squeezed in where there should be luggage racks, limited cycle storage and no room for a buffet counter. .

    • Lumma says:

      Hopefully when Great British Rail comes in, there’ll be more services run for the benefit of the travelling public than just purely for commercial reasons

      • G says:

        Because previous nationalisation of services have worked out so well for the taxpayer.

        • Barrel for Scraping says:

          LNER is already nationalised (it’s the ex Virgin Trains East Coast service), there’s quite a few others too. Some collapsed before covid and a few after. The private operators that remain like GWR had their franchises ripped up and are now on management contracts.

          Rail franchising has failed

        • Lumma says:

          By the early 1990s, British Rail was the most efficient nationalised railway in Europe. It was privatised due to a Conservative manifesto promise for an election they expected to lose and without a plan to implement it.

          The biggest problem the GBR plans are that they don’t really go far enough, so the taxpayer still needs to pay private companies to “rent” the rolling stock and freight is still going to be privatised.

          • Callum says:

            No, the biggest problem is that the cheap fares people love abroad are achieved by government subsidies, and neither the current government nor any realistic governments in the near future have any desire to do such a thing.

            Neither “improving efficiencies” nor getting rid of the private leasing companies will make a significant difference from a public perspective.

            Improvement? Sure.
            Enough to get the general population who won’t stop banging on about trains being an extortionate rip off to be happy? Not at all.

        • Tariq says:

          So did privatisation with the licensees lining up to hand their franchises in.

      • callum says:

        That seems incredibly unlikely…

      • Tim says:

        That is kinda my point. if we were running a railway for the benefit of the passenger, you would use the kitchen space to provide a buffet counter on every single train. Running 200+ high speed services per day which all carry around a kitchen which is only used on 6 trains per day makes zero sense from a passenger service perspective, a commercial perspective or an environmental perspective.

      • Ben says:

        Yes because what we really need under GBR is subsidising first class dining…..

    • Barrel for Scraping says:

      The trains were specced by the government as part of the intercity express programme for both the GWML and ECML (LNER calls them Azuma) The big kitchen was part of the spec which is particularly wasteful in the 5 car variants as valuable space is wasted. At least LNER uses the kitchen on a lot more services than GWR. It’s a total waste of space on Transpennine Express which also acquired some of these trains.

      • Tim says:

        Agreed. The civil servants at D of T are rubbish at specifying trains. We can argue about what space on trains should be used for and whether that be for cramming in more seats or providing decent passenger amenities like catering or space for bikes or surfboards or whatever. But on almost all GWR trains, almost half a coach is not used for ANYTHING because it is a kitchen on a train without a restaurant service.

    • mkcol says:

      You couldn’t get anywhere near 10 rows of airline style seats in the space the kitchen uses.

  • Pat says:

    So good to see boomers not only enjoying fare subsidies but the luxury dining as well.

  • Denis says:

    I was looking forward to a nice piece of “railway fish” – credit to the film ‘In which we serve’ – on the 13.15 from Plymouth 27th March . Unfortunately a ‘shortage of chefs’ resulted in no Pullman dining experience!

  • captaindave says:

    Our daughter and her bf visited us (long) weekend just gone.. train from Bristol to Totnes delayed by over an hour, and the service was terminated at Newton Abbot, from where we had to pick them up.
    Return journey back to Bristol yesterday was completely cancelled ( Leeds train ) so they had to use the Paddington train, get off at Taunton, then wait around nearly an hour for axtrain to Bristol.
    Shambolic.

  • ADS says:

    the last proper meal on an Irish train is on the Dublin to Belfast “Enterprise” train service.

    with the increase to hourly services on that route, sadly not all service are on the full service Enterprise – see Seat61 for an explanation to work out which services have proper food.

    sadly last time I took it (to get to BHD) my timings didn’t work for an Enterprise train – so I can’t tell you what the food is like!

    https://www.irishrail.ie/getmedia/7a4a67c1-22c5-480c-b2e7-80fda60a20f4/Enterprise_FirstPlus_Breakfast_and_Lunch_Menu.pdf

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