Argentina – advice?

We’ve booked Argentina for this Summer for 3 weeks too.

We’ve used avios and 241 in J via the following route

MAD-EZE
EZE-MAD-LHR

Will make my way to Madrid a few days earlier.

Also, following this thread as we’ve not done any planning yet.

This is the copy of a post I did at the end of March last year-don’t know if it will be any help.

I’ve recently completed a 17 night trip in Chile and Argentina. This is actually the continuation of a Covid curtailed trip 3 years ago. Previously we flew to Buenos Aires, spent 3 nights there travelled to Torres del Paine, the Perito Merino glacier, wine tasting in Santiago and then borders started closing and flights cancelling so we legged it home.

This time we flew BA F to Santiago- I was impressed by hard and soft product, especially Concorde lounge.

Day 1 – free afternoon in Santiago- we’d done a city tour previously so just walked around a local park. Stayed at Pullman Vitacura which is an Accor hotel. Thought it was poor.

Day 2 – flight from SCL to PUQ (Punta Arenas) Sky Airlines-wheretocredit had no answer for miles. It’s a bit like Ryanair of Chile basic, very efficient, new aircraft and minimalist service. All on time. Stayed in Cabo de Hornos hotel which was good. Some reasonable restaurant choices with King crab being a local favourite.

Day 3 – shockingly early start (4.30am) for Whale watching trip with Solo Expediciones. Fortunately the meeting point was a 2 minute walk from the hotel. 50 minute bus trip to the launch point. Catamaran capable of 120 pax had 30 odd on board so we could spread out. It goes via Cape Froward which is the most southerly mainland point of the Americas (there are more southerly islands). I was lurking round the bridge and got invited into a seat next to the captain just as the sun was rising and we passed the Cape. Good fun. Later on saw loads of humpback whales, sea lions and fur seals. Visited a glacier and headed back with more whales on the return.

Day 4 – a lie in with a 6.30am start for a trip with the same company to Magdalena and Marta Islands. Short bus trip south (close to the airport) and boarded a 30 odd seater which was completely full. 40 minutes to Magdalena Island and the Magellanic Penguins. They are just preparing for their migration to the Brazilian coast. I hour walk around the island provided loads of photo opportunities. Back on the boat for Marta Island home of a colony of Sea Lions. Part way across the trip became more bouncy with a very strong current-then one massive bump which threw everyone out of their seats and onto the deck led to an announcement that we would have to turn back!

Day 5 – Two LATAM flights PUQ – SCL and SCL to CJC (Calama in the Atacama desert). As a One World member they had BA type IT and I couldn’t check in online. First flight was a fully loaded 787-9 with them asking for volunteers to move. 2 1/2 hours wait in SCL then 30% full trip to CJC. One hour car transfer to Hotel Altiplanico in San Pedro de Atacama. Pretty good hotel with a slight disadvantage of being a 10 minute walk out of the main street. Seems to be a bit of a backpacker place with loads of hostels, bars and restaurants.

Day 6 – Moon Valley tour. Stunning views of the Andes and some volcanoes. Supposed to be the driest place on earth. Amazing rock formations everywhere. Sunset at the Kari lookout.

Day 7 – Red stones and Alitplano tour. Chaxa, Miscanti and Miniques lagoons. Atacama salt flats and Los Flamencos National Reserve.

Day 8 – El Tatio geyser. 5.30am collection from the hotel. You go early because the geyser is more active when the air temperature is lower. After visiting breakfast prepared on the back of the pick up. Great views all round. Visit Machuca on the way back.

Evening astronomical experience. 10 minute car ride to what seemed like someones back garden! But it was very informative with amazing views of the Milky Way and how dense it is. Lots of the constellations pointed out and very clearly visible.

Day 9 – bus from San Pedro de Atacama to Salta (Arg). The bus was OK, sort of World Traveller type seat and space. But the trip goes on forever. It was late, we got on at 9.30am and got off at 9.10pm. The poor bus fully loaded with people and luggage crawls up into the mountains averaging 25-30 km/hour for over 2 hours. It takes 2 hours to get all the passengers through Chile/Argentina border control. The last hour from Jujuy into Salta is torture with roadworks, heavy traffic etc.

Day 10 – Salta to Purmamarca. Home of the seven coloured hills. Lots more spectacular scenery, we followed the old train route (El tren a los nubes) The train to the clouds. In the afternoon an off road trip (that’s why we were in a 4×4) to the Salinas Grandes (the Great Salt Flat). Hotel La Comerca was fine. It had a spa but we didn’t get chance to use it.

Day 11 – Purmamarca through the Humahuaca valley and back to Salta. Probably the least interesting day of the whole trip. Back to Design Suites in Salta.

Day 12 & 13 – Two day trip to Cafayate. The first day was the scenic 300km route via Cachi which is a lovely village for a lunch stop. Just before Cachi you join Route 40 heading south. The distance markers tell you if you want to stay on the road to the end in Ushaia you only have another 4506 km to go! After Cachi it’s a non tarmac road and fabulous fun in a 4×4. Cafayate is another lovely place a wine producing centre. We stayed at Villa Vicuna an old colonial building. The second day was the more direct route back to Salta via a couple of vineyards including a very pleasant lunchstop.

Day 14 – Salta (SLA) to Iguazu (IGR). Aerolineas Argentinas. Sky Team member, but their IT didn’t allow crediting of miles to Virgin-probs a bit too soon. Hotel Mercure. Very disappointing restaurant-didn’t seem to have inherited any French skills in their cooking.

Day 15 – Brazilian side of the falls. You have to cross into Brazil but there is a tourist lane at the border so you can zoom past the commercials and taxis returning to Brazil and Paraguay having filled up on cheap fuel. At the visitor centre there’s a shortish bus ride to where the trails start. It’s easy walking on the 1200 metre trail. It was busyish, but not at all uncomfortable and no problem to get lots of good photos. As you would imagine loads of wonderful views of the falls.

Day 16 – Argentinian side of the falls. Similar visitor centre and a train ride to the Devils Throat (the most impressive part of the falls). Again a short walk on elevated platforms. There are then two other trails to follow offering lots of other varied views. Back to the airport for another AA flight from Iguazu to Buenos Aires city airport. Hotel Pestana on Avenido 9 de Julio. Basic but OK. 30 minute walk down to Puerto Madero for dinner.

Day 17 – Club world back to LHR day before the strikes start.

@strickers this is a big question as Argentina is a vast country with very distinct regions and climates. I read your recent SE Asia trip and read the 17 day trip above with interest but I personally wouldn’t fancy quite such a whistle-stop because the distances are huge, weather can be incredibly unpredictable (ie getting stuck somewhere for a day or two) and they love the odd strike French style. Some of the sights are so spectacular that they merit days rather than a drive past! The whole thing also very much depends on what you like seeing and doing. You won’t be finding a lot of lounges outside BsAs but that’s a city to be out enjoying anyway. The week relaxing probably won’t be by the seaside!

The key regions really are:-

Buenos Aires
Iguazú/Corrientes – tropical area. Definitely worth seeing from both sides, personally would stay on the Brazilian side the hotel das Cataratas has a spectacular location that enables you to visit the falls when it’s quiet. We went before it became Belmond and it was very tired but the spot made up for it. Corrientes province is a stunning area, great for wildlife and remains very unspoilt. Iguazú is very busy nowadays.
Pampas / Córdoba – beautiful rolling countryside and Córdoba is a very attractive city, but perhaps only of real interest if you are into riding / polo / golf or dove shooting!
Mendoza – it’s a big no from us! Wine town just totally overrun with tourists and which has been all newly built to make it look like what Americans think wine country looks like. They all duly coo at seeing a vine in the ground and tip for being shown such a rare plant. All very fake and expensive. Lujan de Cuyo, 30 mins south is marginally nicer and the countryside around, in the foothills of the snow capped Andes in the background.
Bariloche / Lake District – for us one of the most beautiful unspoilt areas in the world, especially around the Llao Llao peninsula where the hotel of the same name has an unparalleled setting; somewhat tired but still a very special place. I would be concerned though about the weather in Sep/Oct; it’s a skiing area and it might not be as spring like as one might expect. I have never done the very multi-modal crossing over to Chile via Puerto Montt but it sounds fantastic.
Valdés Peninsula – huge unspoilt area for wildlife and whale watching
Glaciers / Perito Moreno – I have been twice and really enjoyed it, but the glaciers in Chile are better although harder and more time consuming to get to.
Ushuaia – I can’t persuade my wife to go, but I’m very keen so that will be my next solo trip while family based somewhere else in the country! The area and then the cruise to Chile sounds great.
Salta and the Northwest – we are about to go to Cafayate for three weeks, for the third three week trip there, so you might deduce we quite like the place. An infinitely nicer wine area than Mendoza. Cafayate is a very charming small town, relatively affluent because of the wineries and tourism but because it’s relatively inaccesible unless you have a private jet, it’s too much effort for most Americans. Salta is a lovely old style colonial town and from there you can do the type of trip to Cachi described above but I would spend a night or two (or ideally longer) at the Colomé winery; a truly magical and very relaxing place. I can’t think of many places with a pool in that setting. There’s even a David Turrell museum on site. The drive from Salta to Colomé is wonderful with a remarkable range of landscapes from lush valley to orange desert with cactuses as far as you can see with a 3000m peak in the middle.

strickers wrote:

Mrs S and I just flipped a coin for Sept/Oct 2025, Argentina or Philippines. Argentina it is.

We aren’t necessarily limited to just Argentina, but the basic plan will be about 3 weeks with a week or so relaxing towards the end. The country has never been on my radar before and I have no idea where to start so would appreciate some pointers. I have plenty of Avios, will have a BA Companion voucher and about 30k Virgin points. Thanks in advance.

I’ve just posted on your Vietnam/Cambodia trip thread asking where you planned to go next when I clicked on this thread. Now I know. Are you following us around or are we following you? Last year we were in Canada about the same time as you, then Cambodia and Vietnam towards the end of last year and we have just started to plan our 3 month trip to South America later this year, including Argentina!

@strickers – I can’t help with Argentina as it’s still languishing on my bucket list, however if you find F award seats, consider starting in DUB. I saved £600 on our outbound flight to MEX in November by starting at DUB, some of which is going to pay for a mini break there before the main holiday.
I kept our return in CW separate (and had the 50% avios refunded) so there’s no “recalculation” of taxes which might wipe out the saving!

strickers wrote:

@LD27 I think it’s one of the great things about this site, the inspiration to visit new places.

Totally agree. Just wish I’d found HfP sooner.

Having looked at flights, we came to the same conclusion to @JDB. The way to go seems to be via Madrid.

@strickers wow, that sounds amazing landing in Antarctica! The setting of Santiago is good but today it’s just another modern city. What’s interesting about Argentina is that 100+ years ago it was one of the richest countries in the world and it built a suitably grandiose capital modelled on Paris, so you see the wide avenues, pale buildings with grey slate roofs, lots of green spaces, grand squares with imposing statues and all by the sea/river. It all went to pot thereafter, but the wealth had spread into the arts, music and culture which thrive today and while the country is bust, there’s still a huge amount of money being put into restoring the faded grandeur in a modern way and improving previously rough areas.

We had a S America trip about 7 years ago. 241 in F return to Rio. Had a few days Rio then flew Latam to Iguassu and stayed at the Belmon Cateratas in the Park. Hotel was fine but access to the falls was great. Do not miss the falls out on both sides! We also had a day excursion to the Itipu Dam on the Parana River ( second only to the 3 gorges… so we were told. Very interesting. Then on to BAires on aerolineas Argentina. Loved BA. So our pre cruise trip was about 10 days. After the cruise which ended in Valparaiso we flew Latam back to Rio on avios. The memories are still very vivid. Really keen to get back SAmerica and explore some more. So the helpful day by day reported above is very helpful