Argentina / Chile trip planning advice

[tblank19]

Hello all – currently planning a trip to Argentina and also possibly Chile and wanted to get some advice on how best to structure it.
– Generally we have somewhere between 10-14 days for the trip in likely November/December
– Can either fly into Santiago on BA F overnight OR into Buenos Aires likely via Iberia having done a day in Madrid before
– We definitely want to spend at least 4 days in Buenos Aires; and 4 or so days in either Argentinian or Chilean Patagonia. We like the look of Awasi in Chile and Eolo on the Argentinian side
– Bariloche also appeals in Argentina but unsure if 3x separate places will be too much flying on a trip of this total length

Wanted to get the thoughts of others who have done a similar trip if there are any recommendations of places we may not have considered in either Argentina or Chile, and also, how much travel is too much given trip length. Plus any recommendations of places to stay or see in Buenos Aires/Patagonia would be great.

Flying into Santiago appeals as we could try BA F and it would be nice to have a day or two there, however, given we would definitely like to see Buenos Aires it is possibly less convenient and instead we could spend more time in Argentina.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[JDB]

Given your relatively short trip, you may want to focus principally on one country as you will otherwise waste too much time travelling. The distances in both countries are huge and brief episodes of bad weather can significantly disrupt flights. Some people like Santiago but, in my view, it’s a busy modern city with limited history and a lot less to offer than Buenos Aires, the Paris of the south, capital of one of the former richest countries in the world! I wouldn’t go to Santiago just because BA offers F on that route.

Argentina currently also offers a big currency benefit. If you do go to Chile, the top two would be the glaciers (different and maybe better than Argentina) and the Atacama desert, both fairly long flights from Santiago. The wine areas in Chile are really quite unimpressive. In Argentina, within that timeframe, Bariloche is extraordinarily beautiful at that time of year, but there is a small risk it will be colder than the usual low 20s and blue skies. Great for hiking lower down or using the ski lifts, wild flowers, trips on the lake and much more. From there you can take a flight to Calafate to visit the glaciers. The Iguassu falls are worth a visit but ideally then returning to the UK via Brazil rather than back via Bs.As. The downtown airport in Bs.As, Aeroparque (AEP) makes life much easier as it’s only 10-15 to Recoleta or Palermo. Re other places in Argentina for a short trip, Mendoza the wine capital is much more interesting than Chile (similar to Bariloche on the edge of the Andes) but it’s a now a bit disneyfied and accordingly touristy and overpriced. The wine country in Cafayate is much more spectacular and very quiet as it’s harder to get to, but well worth the trip for the whole NW Argentina experience (not just wine) that’s very different to the rest of the country; probably too tight in 10 days, but maybe in 14.

[Lady London]

I suggest you first search Headforpoints for the very interesting forum posts that already exist.

You can search for such things as “Buenos Aires” or “Santiago” . Even “Montevideo” came in a thread with other useful posts. “South America” should also find extra posts that might be useful. “Chile” or “Patagonia” are likely to duplicate posts found but worth doing just in case. I’m tempted to suggest “Iguazu”, or the other HfP favourite “wine” together with “region”.

Each post you retrieve using one of these search strings will be surrounded by others on the topic.

To search Headforpoints you must use external Google search with “site: headforpoints.com ” then your chosen search item. The site isn’t indexed internally – lots of blogs and sites find this becomes onerous, unwieldy and not effective at fully retrieving over time – so you must use the normal external Google search restricting results only to those from headforpoints using the search line as above.

[AFKAE]

Hi tblank, I wrote some notes on my trip to Chile and Argentina which you might find useful. They are in the destination advice section-I think on the 2nd page. The post was called “some notes on Chile and Argentina.”

[tblank19]

JDB wrote:

Given your relatively short trip, you may want to focus principally on one country as you will otherwise waste too much time travelling. The distances in both countries are huge and brief episodes of bad weather can significantly disrupt flights. Some people like Santiago but, in my view, it’s a busy modern city with limited history and a lot less to offer than Buenos Aires, the Paris of the south, capital of one of the former richest countries in the world! I wouldn’t go to Santiago just because BA offers F on that route.

Argentina currently also offers a big currency benefit. If you do go to Chile, the top two would be the glaciers (different and maybe better than Argentina) and the Atacama desert, both fairly long flights from Santiago. The wine areas in Chile are really quite unimpressive. In Argentina, within that timeframe, Bariloche is extraordinarily beautiful at that time of year, but there is a small risk it will be colder than the usual low 20s and blue skies. Great for hiking lower down or using the ski lifts, wild flowers, trips on the lake and much more. From there you can take a flight to Calafate to visit the glaciers. The Iguassu falls are worth a visit but ideally then returning to the UK via Brazil rather than back via Bs.As. The downtown airport in Bs.As, Aeroparque (AEP) makes life much easier as it’s only 10-15 to Recoleta or Palermo. Re other places in Argentina for a short trip, Mendoza the wine capital is much more interesting than Chile (similar to Bariloche on the edge of the Andes) but it’s a now a bit disneyfied and accordingly touristy and overpriced. The wine country in Cafayate is much more spectacular and very quiet as it’s harder to get to, but well worth the trip for the whole NW Argentina experience (not just wine) that’s very different to the rest of the country; probably too tight in 10 days, but maybe in 14.

Many thanks for the detailed and very helpful reply JDB. I am starting to lean towards focusing on Argentina given that is where the majority of key sights for us are located. Bariloche does look beautiful and seems like a great place to spend a few relaxing days – it seems there is one flight every two days or so onto Calafate which could make it a great stop between BA and Patagonia either on the way there or back. Thank you for the tip on AEP over EZE.

Do you have any experience of visiting Torres del Paine or Chilean Patagonia from Calafate/Argentinian side? Is there transfer and border crossing particularly long or painful?

I think wine will look to save for another trip, possibly with Chile.

[tblank19]

AFKAE wrote:

Hi tblank, I wrote some notes on my trip to Chile and Argentina which you might find useful. They are in the destination advice section-I think on the 2nd page. The post was called “some notes on Chile and Argentina.”

Thank you, just reading through now

[JDB]

@tblank19 – we haven’t tried the border crossing from El Calafate to Torres del Paine, but it’s a minimum three hour rather circuitous drive just to the border and all the Argentina/Chile border points are quite erratic in opening hours and who they feel like letting though.

There used too be a flight from Santiago to Bariloche two days a week, but I don’t think it operates currently.

[yorkieflyer]

Pre pandemic we took a bus from el calafate to Puerto Natales, all day but very comfortable executive coach

[Vihaan]

Just (last sunday) returned from a similar trip and borders are open and Chile to Argentina crossing is like a breeze.

London- Santiago (2 days) – Valparaisao (1day) – Punta Arenas ( 3 days) via Latam and cheap flight from Santiago – bus from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales (3hrs by Bus Sur) – Puerto Natales ( 3 days) to cover Torres Del Plaine – El Calafate (3 days) via bus sur [ the bus leave at 7:30am and arrive El Calafate at 1pm ] and two border crossing – Buenos Aires (AEP) by flight from El Calafate and take Flybondi which is very cheap. Spent 4 days in Buenos Aires and back to London via Madrid.

Didn’t do Montevideo but you can park 1 day for it or 2 days for Iguazu falls.

[Biki]

Hi All,

I’m off to Argentina in December and was hoping for a few tips on hotels etc if anyone has any.

We’ll fly into Buenos Aires for the first few days, down to Bariloche for around 5 days and then on to Mendoza, before flying back to Buenos Aires. Any tips for hotels in any of these areas? I have booked at the Park Hyatt in Mendoza from 22nd to 25th using points, but if there are any other recommendations, I’m happy to hear them. We are planning on exploring the Maipu area and Lujan de Cuyo area from Mendoza and then would like to visit the Uco Valley wine estates and looking for recommendations on where to stay 25th to 27th December. I know we could visit Uco as an organised tour from Mendoza Town but would like to stay somewhere more scenic and outside Mendoza.

In Uco Valley the most premium ones are fully booked or require a three-night night stay (such as The Vines, Casa de Uco) Ones that are currently looking at are:

Gaia Lodge
La Morada de Los Andes(only tiny lodge avail) Auberge du Vin Estancia Mendoza

[JDB]

@Biki around Bariloche and Lake Nahuel Huapi, the Llao Llao hotel is by far the best place (and the drive/hikes around that peninsula are spectacular), but has become very expensive; it is truly a one of a kind place. The Aldebarán hotel is good, very comfortable, excellent food and setting, but slightly out of the way. The Art hotel is very nice but in a bit of a rubbish/no man’s land location so we only go there to eat. The lodge on Victoria Island is amazing, but relatively inaccessible. You might consider further along the lake towards Villa La Angostura.

I can’t help with Mendoza; we don’t like it at all, but someone will have some ideas. Bear in mind that Christmas/New Year is not only a big celebration but also the start of the school summer holidays that continue until after carnival, so things will be busy, expensive and have minimum stay restrictions.

[Biki]

JDB wrote:

@Biki around Bariloche and Lake Nahuel Huapi, the Llao Llao hotel is by far the best place (and the drive/hikes around that peninsula are spectacular), but has become very expensive; it is truly a one of a kind place. The Aldebarán hotel is good, very comfortable, excellent food and setting, but slightly out of the way. The Art hotel is very nice but in a bit of a rubbish/no man’s land location so we only go there to eat. The lodge on Victoria Island is amazing, but relatively inaccessible. You might consider further along the lake towards Villa La Angostura.

I can’t help with Mendoza; we don’t like it at all, but someone will have some ideas. Bear in mind that Christmas/New Year is not only a big celebration but also the start of the school summer holidays that continue until after carnival, so things will be busy, expensive and have minimum stay restrictions.

Hi @JDB, thanks for this! Can i ask if you also have any hotel recommendations in BA too?

[JDB]

I would go to the Park Hyatt in BsAs as well. Good location in Recoleta for sightseeing and restaurants and it has a lovely garden which is very welcome in the height of summer and breakfast on the terrace is great; service struggled a bit after covid, but now tip top. The Four Seasons used to be good and the public areas are quite good, but the rooms are tired and dreary unless you are in the Mansion. The Alvear Palace is a bit amateur. If you don’t know BsAs, Recoleta is a very traditional, smart area like Knightsbridge/Kensington with mainly more elderly residents so more smart boutiques and fancier restaurants/cafés than lively bars. If you want somewhere a bit more lively/bohemian, you should look at Palermo but we haven’t found anywhere very satisfactory to stay (plus noisy with bars closing at 4am) so prefer to visit from Recoleta. The main square in Palermo has become something of a rough tourist trap, but all the rest is good fun and packed with great restaurants and bars.

[JDB]

JDB wrote:

I would go to the Park Hyatt in BsAs as well. Good location in Recoleta for sightseeing and restaurants and it has a lovely garden which is very welcome in the height of summer and breakfast on the terrace is great; service struggled a bit after covid, but now tip top. The Four Seasons used to be good and the public areas are quite good, but the rooms are tired and dreary unless you are in the Mansion. The Alvear Palace is a bit amateur. If you don’t know BsAs, Recoleta is a very traditional, smart area like Knightsbridge/Kensington with mainly more elderly residents so more smart boutiques and fancier restaurants/cafés than lively bars. If you want somewhere a bit more lively/bohemian, you should look at Palermo but we haven’t found anywhere very satisfactory to stay (plus noisy with bars closing at 4am) so prefer to visit from Recoleta. The main square in Palermo has become something of a rough tourist trap, but all the rest is good fun and packed with great restaurants and bars.

PS both Recoleta and Palermo are equally accessible from the Aeroparque downtown airport – 15-20 mins.

[Biki]

JDB wrote:

stay (plus noisy with bars closing at 4am) so prefer to visit fro

fantastic, thanks for your tips as always!