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How safe is Rio de Janeiro?

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It’s not often that we write about travel destinations here on Head for Points. But since my recent trip to Rio de Janeiro to review Norwegian’s premium economy product we’ve had numerous comments online and in person inquiring about the city itself, so we thought it would be worth covering.

In particular, readers were concerned about safety in the city, which obviously has a reputation for crime.

My experience of Rio was very, very far removed from all the reports you read and hear about online. A quick google about safety in Rio will give you a very skewed picture of the city.

Rio de Janeiro Parque Lage

Reports on TripAdvisor, travel sites and forums make it sound like you will get mugged every day, have your credit cards cloned and your valuables stolen by hotel staff. People warn of children and teenagers that scour beaches and run away with your bags, and the dangers of being out after dark.

The simple fact is that, with a little common sense, you are unlikely to encounter any of these things. After a week long stay in multiple hotels, visiting beaches and (yes) staying out after dark, I came back with no dramatic stories to tell whatsoever.

Of course, these events do happen – and they are more likely to happen in Rio than they are in London or another European destination. But they are still unlikely and you can minimise your exposure to the risks by using common sense.

Rio de Janeiro Santa Teresa tram

Here are the rules I abided by:

Always use the hotel safe

Keep a heightened awareness of your surroundings

Keep your belongings close to you on the beach and never leave them unattended

Don’t wear flashy clothing, jewellery or flash expensive technology around – the less you look like a tourist the better

I also made sure to take my cue from local Brazilians. I spent my final day in Rio on Copacabana beach and at one point heard three loud bangs.

To someone with an untrained ear, they sounded a lot like gunshots – not something you want to hear whilst enjoying 30 degree heat on the beach. Nevertheless, not a single Brazilian around us reacted in any way, so I figured it was not a cause for concern and – dear reader – survived the rest of the day.

Rio de Janeiro Leblon

Although I had psyched myself out about personal safety prior to my trip, I felt comfortable as soon as I hit the streets. Of course, there are areas you should avoid (favelas) and others that you need to be alert in. But in areas like Leblon, Copacabana, Ipanema and Santa Teresa – the areas you are most likely to be staying in – it feels little different from a southern European city.

Rio de Janeiro sunset

Rio is a wonderfully diverse, dynamic city that I cannot recommend enough. According to the Foreign Office travel advice crime – when it does happen to British tourists – is typically theft or pickpocketing, and not more serious incidents. Enjoy the samba, caipirinhas (although not too many!), the beaches and food.

Norwegian has been flying to the city from London Gatwick since March. If you have not already read my review of Norwegian Premium you can do so here – you will find their Premium fares are generally under £1,000 return.  With a bit of common sense and a robust travel insurance policy it’s hard not to have a good time.


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Comments (128)

This article is closed to new comments. Feel free to ask your question in the HfP forums.

  • Doug says:

    As a Brazilian from São Paulo that moved to London some years ago and travelled around many cities, I can say that this crime feeling will be present, but news are always a bit exaggerated, I don’t see people being stabbed in South Bank or neither I ever got stolen anywhere in a andalusia or Phúket, so yes I agree with the recommendation, take extra care when choosing your hotel and itinerary and try to not look so gringo. Do not get closer to guettos/favelas, the gang controlled areas are a real threat.

    • Spurs Debs says:

      You do know there’s a knife/ crime epidemic in London don’t you? Ironically in all my travels only place I got robbed was London.

      • Rob says:

        Interesting Cape Town piece in the Guardian last week. There have been 2000 murders in the last year, which may put you off …. but only 8 in the downtown area, which probably makes it safer than central London.

      • Doug says:

        Yes sure, there is a knife crisis, even Guildford train couldn’t be helped, but still these things are soft comparing to what you see in Brazilian media, guns are quite common over there, and it is not unheard of people being gun pointed. At many occasions the army was deployed in Rio, so this can’t really be compared to London.

        • Spurs Debs says:

          I wasn’t comparing it to London you were, unless they have moved the South Bank. I’m sure crime in Rio is far worse but don’t under estimate the crap that goes on in our inner cites. You only have to walk round Tottenham, Edmonton etc to see the dregs of society and the criminal activity going on in broad daylight.

  • BSI1978 says:

    Would people recommend our booking and organising trips prior to flying? Or is it just as easy & economical to do it on the ground?

    Thanks

    • pianoamit says:

      We’re quite ‘self-sufficient’ travellers, in that we generally like to explore for ourselves. In between my broken Portuguese and the locals’ English, we managed to communicate quite well and used both the metro and Uber to get around Rio. Many of the attractions don’t really require guides (Sugar Loaf Mountain, the Christ the Redeemer statue, the tiled steps, etc.).

      The only guided tour we did, and we booked it online while we were already in Rio, was a tour of the favelas. I had heard from friends that it was a very interesting and insightful look into life in the favelas; in my experience it felt like a rather voyeuristic excursion to look at poverty from the outside and give money to the many beggars who line the streets. I guess a lot depends on the guide and the way the tour is presented, so your experience may be different.

      Finally, here is a piece of unsolicited advice. Depending on what you like you may prefer staying at either Copacabana or Ipanema. In our experience, Copacabana was very glamorous and touristy, while Ipanema seems to be a bit more of an affluent neighbourhood of locals. We preferred to stay in the latter (which is within about 15 minutes’ walking distance from the beaches of Copacabana anyway). The hotels were significantly cheaper, the beach just as nice, and the local restaurants and cafés were great.

    • Rhys says:

      I didn’t go on any officially organised trips, just used Uber to do my own thing. Of course, if you want to visit a Favela, you should book something.

  • Paul says:

    In nearly 40 years of travelling with over 140 airports visited on every continent the only time I have had a problem was in Rio.

    I am not sure I would go back, I want to be relaxed on holiday, I don’t want to plan to have fake wallets or leave my belongings behind. I rarely take organised tours preferring to do my own thing but in Rio that would be dangerous.

    It was a wonderful trip, seeing Corcovado was a highlight and the food fabulous, so I hope those who do go enjoy it and stay safe.

  • John says:

    I think that it’s impossible not to look like a tourist in most places, unless you are actually not a tourist. What is possible is to not look like an easy target.

    • Rhys says:

      Very true. And there were definitely other tourists that weren’t as cautious as I was, so I felt that any opportunistic crime would have affected them first.

  • IslandDweller says:

    I felt safer in Rio than I did in Naples. Amazing city.

    • Scurran says:

      That is rather damning it with faint praise.

    • ankomonkey says:

      I’ve travelled a fair bit (although not to Brazil yet) and included some places considered to be dodgy, and only had crime/safety issues in Florence, Detroit and Chicago. It was only the Florence issue where my kids were with me. Sadly, if you ask them about their trip to Italy, the main memory is the street theft attempt.

  • Freddy says:

    I once swam in shark infested waters and survived. I don’t think I’d be returning though and don’t think I’d declare it safe either

  • Chris says:

    I always enjoy HforP articles and look forward to the mailings every day, but have to add my six penn’orth to this article based on living and working in Rio for three years. I have lived all over the world and the Brazilian people I worked with or associated with were (are) some of the most delightful people I have ever met. The city of Rio is without any doubt in my mind, the most beautiful in the world, but even though I lived in the safer part “Zona Sul” I got used to regular gun battles, the most spectacular involving a helicopter flying over the favela which overlooked my school with a policeman leaning out and machine-gunning into the favela. We had an inspection team in at the time and it was my first six weeks ! Classes continued as children sat on the floor with the teachers (mainly Brazilian) carrying on teaching with their lessons punctuated by the rat-a-tat-tat of the machine gun and the odd explosion from grenades.

    Ok so that’s an extreme example but after 3 years I got used to these gun battles from time to time even where I lived in Ipanema. I chose not to renew my contract the day after a doctor on his rounds was shot dead in my gated and guarded street just a couple of blocks away from the famous bar where “The Girl from Ipanema” was written. During that period of time various colleagues ended up having to take days off to go and get new documents after they were mugged and or car-jacked. But after a while one got used to it. I travelled everywhere by taxi – and survived, but I may be more cautious (paranoid) than others…..

    Incidentally the three bangs described were most likely the gangs being warned the police were coming or the drugs had arrived – or so my colleagues told me.

    My vicar in Rio also took a tour of the biggest favela and survived with no mishaps but his guide, one of the parishioners, lived there so was well aware of what to avoid.

    Yes, the savvy traveller might avoid trouble – but the description in the article is that of a lucky experienced traveller perhaps. Go to Rio – have a wonderful time – enjoy the food and drink (ah, caipirinha….) and the wonderful friendly and hospitable people —- but take more care than normal and err on the side of caution.

    I wouldn’t have missed living in Rio for anything, it was a great experience but I was happy to go. And, in the end great training for when the coup d’etat took place in Kyiv…..

    • Lady London says:

      Hey Chris let me know your next destination so I can stay away from it please? -_-

  • Dave says:

    I was walking round lapa late at night with my money accidently hanging out my back pocket and a street seller came running down the road to let me know
    We also went to one of the favelas open for tourists and it felt safe to be there

    • Michael Jennings says:

      Most people want to help you in most places – particularly people running honest businesses and particulalry in places where there are criminals about. I fell for an old scam in Buenos Aires – the one where liquid is thrown at you, and then someone comes up to you and offers to “help” but in fact robs you when you let them get close. I did not have anything stolen because some good local people on the other side of the road saw what was happening, and shouted at the thieves to go away. They then explained the scam to me, told me to be more careful, and walked off before I had barely had time to thank them.

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