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Review: we try Great Western’s Night Riviera Sleeper, from Paddington to Cornwall

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This is our review of Great Western Railway’s Night Riviera Sleeper train service from London Paddington to Devon and Cornwall. In my case, it was to Plymouth.

Regular readers may remember my review of the Caledonian Sleeper train from Euston to Scotland last year. We wanted to follow this up with a review of the UK’s only other sleeper train, from Paddington to Penzance.

GWR kindly provided my sleeper ticket from London’s Paddington Station to Plymouth and a return trip on the Pullman Dining train from Plymouth to London – review to follow.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

After my short stay in the GWR lounge on platform 1 at Paddington Station (see my review here), I headed over to Platform 8 for my sleeper train’s departure, a little walk away. I was told that it would normally depart from Platform 1 which is directly opposite the lounge.

The train’s scheduled departure is 11.45pm but it is available for boarding from c10.30pm. Given that my scheduled arrival time in Plymouth was 5.37am, early boarding gave me a chance for a half-decent sleep.

My train had four sleeper coaches and was apparently fully booked. This is no surprise because, as I found, it is a pleasant way to travel if you are into this kind of train adventure. More practically, you can save the cost of a hotel night.

Along a narrow long corridor are the cabins. These all have the same interior with two beds, which can be booked for single or double occupancy. When used as a double, the second person sleeps on a pull down bed above the first.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

Although small I settled in nicely to my cabin. My coach attendant gave a brief introduction to the temperature controls (it can get very hot!), the emergency light and how to close the door (hooked in the back near the floor).

The night table doubles as a sink with a towel and soap provided. There is no amenity kit. I also had a shallow wardrobe with hangers and two bottles of water. Your luggage should slide away under the bed.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

There were two spacious bathrooms at my end of the coach but no showers.

My cabin had a connecting door to the next cabin (locked obviously) which would allow the sleeper to be used for families – or a couple where no-one wanted the upper bunk!

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

Here is an example of how a cabin looks with the second bed out:

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

In case you were wondering how to swing on to the upper bed, a ladder unfolds from the side:

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

Before I went to bed I had a look into the bar coach. It looked a good space but it was too late for me to hang out.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

Below is the bar which is split in half. The end where I am standing is for cabin guests and behind the door it is for guests from the other coaches.

On the menu were snacks and sweet treats with hot and cold drinks. Breakfast is free if you are in a cabin. For everyone else, deals include a croissant/cake & hot drink at £4.30 or any porridge & hot drink at £5.60 – decent value!

I chose the latter as ‘to go’ option which meant that the staff would bring it to my cabin just before I got off the train.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

The bar coach has comfortable seating for two or for four people at tables:

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

…. or more relaxed lounging on a sofa:

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

I made sure I got all the pictures as quickly as possible and turned in for the night – I would have an early start in Plymouth tomorrow.

As with my Caledonian Sleeper experience, the journey was a bit rough in sections and very calm in others. The train moves relatively slowly and stands at stations for long periods, and I actually slept quite well. The beds are, of course, narrow so you need to adapt your sleeping position to the space.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

Below is my very hot breakfast ‘to go’. It helped me to bridge the time at Plymouth station in the very early morning before it was light enough to start on sightseeing (which, by the way, was more interesting and educational than I expected). Plymouth has no arrivals lounge – or any lounge, for that matter – which was a shame, but luckily it was a dry and pleasant morning.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

Whilst Plymouth is an early arrival at 5.37am – albeit we arrived 15 minutes late – it is a more sensible arrival time if you continue into Cornwall.

The full list of arrival times are (Sundays vary slightly, and my train seemed to be running to a slightly adapted timetable):

  • Taunton 02:37
  • Exeter St Davids 03:07
  • Newton Abbot 04:32
  • Plymouth 05:10
  • Liskeard 06:05
  • Bodmin Parkway 06:19
  • Lostwithiel 06:26
  • Par 06:34
  • St Austell 06:43
  • Truro 07:01
  • Redruth 07:17
  • Camborne 07:24
  • Hayle 07:34
  • St Erth 07:39
  • Penzance 07:50

Conclusion

My journey from Paddington to Plymouth was a good experience, and one I would recommend. The cabin worked in terms of space and functionality, I got some sleep (although the night was a bit short) and my hot ‘to go’ breakfast was a life saver in Plymouth at 5.50am!

I had the cabin to myself. I can imagine it could be a squeeze with two people and possibly suitcases, but it certainly isn’t impossible.

If you want to compare with my Caledonian Sleeper review, you can read it here. The two services are very different though – the Caledonian Sleeper saw a huge investment of Scottish Government money into new state-of-the-art rolling stock and is a longer journey. It is also more expensive than the Night Riviera Sleeper.

In terms of pricing, the supplement (on top of the cost of flexible Standard ticket or any First Class ticket – the website shows which allow a cabin upgrade) appears to be dynamically priced. The website says that cabin supplements start at £49 but in practice it seems to start at £79 one way for a single cabin, rising to £149 as cabins sell out.

The website says that twin cabins can be as low as £59 all-in but in pratice I found they were an additional £50 to £80 over the single cabin price – again, the supplement is dynamic. It makes sense to book early, especially as trains appear to sell out a few weeks in advance.

You can find out more about the Night Riviera Sleeper on the GWR website here.

In the final part of this series I will look at GWR’s Pullman Dining service.

Comments (52)

  • Norfolk&Chance says:

    Do they wake you up when it is your stop?

    • PZE says:

      Yes, you can say what time you want breakfast and they wake you up and deliver it (if you want a tray with proper teacup etc rather than a takeaway bag it’s obviously a bit earlier before arrival). You’re generally very well looked after.

  • CarpalTravel says:

    I wonder how the drivers of these services cope, it must be difficult to stay focussed and alert when travelling overnight, at a relatively slow pace.

    • Amy C says:

      I think they change during the night.

      • Clive says:

        Think 3 drivers 1 London to Exeter (Exeter driver)2 Exeter to plymouth (Exeter driver)3 plymouth to penzance (plymouth driver)

        • Train man says:

          Quite simply the same way as they do when they are driving any other trains at any other ungodly time!
          The night sleeper is not the only reason for the driver to be working overnight!

    • Rich says:

      My word, imagine how pilots flying overnight cope????

      I’d imagine that after well over a hundred years of trains and getting on for that with commercial air travel they’ve worked their safety systems out pretty well by now.

      • Lumma says:

        The Automatic Warning System will be making noises all night too, which will help keep the driver alert

        • RussellH says:

          AWS does not just “make noises”. If a signal is anything other than green the driver has to respond promptly, or the braking system is activated.

  • Peter says:

    There is an arrival lounge at Truro station but I don’t know whether it has a shower (or indeed anything else about it).

  • jj says:

    Fun fact: on that line 121 years ago, when British technology was truly great, a GWR mail train hauled by the City of Truro locomotive became the first in-service train in the world to reach 100mph whilst hauling a mail train from Plymouth to London.

    Unlike much of the rest of the planet, we have scarcely advanced since.

    • G says:

      You’re talking down Britain!!!!

      No, in all seriousness, we’re a retirement village masquerading as a country.

      No country for young men.

      • mkcol says:

        But fine for women?

      • Callum says:

        I despise Britain, but it’s an irrefutable fact that it has one of the most comprehensive and reliable train networks in the world.

        People picking out a handful of countries that have significantly better networks (often erroneously based on their one experience that one time on holiday!) seem to forget that there are 200 other countries out there!

        By all means criticise it for not being adequate when considering our wealth and railway history (I’ll be right there with you), but claiming most/much “of the planet” are miles ahead is just flat out wrong.

        • jj says:

          @Callum, unlike you, I love Britain and its history. My comment about the rest of the planet was simply observing that our rail technology led the world 121 years ago, but many others have since overtaken us.

  • PZE says:

    A couple of other things people might find useful

    – you don’t need a first class ticket (you can add a cabin to one but I don’t think you get any extra benefits). Any standard flexible ticket from super off-peak upwards, single or return works. Advance tickets don’t allow a berth to be added
    – most soft/hot drinks and snacks in the bar are free – only alcohol and some food is charged for

  • Halo says:

    My wife and I took, or rather tried to take, the Riviera Sleeper, on Friday 5th January 2024, to St Austell. I booked it when bookings opened. On the afternoon of travel I checked on-line that all was well but it had simply disappeared on-line. It wasn’t cancelled – that is to say shown as cancelled – it simply didn’t exist. So I telephoned and our tickets were instead swapped to a 6pm or so normal service instead. There were bad storms that night. On the 6pm or 6:30pm service, which was scheduled to arrive at 10:30pm or so, travelling standard class despite our booking being for sleepers. We at least got to experience the Pullman Dining Car, which was very good, as space was available after 1st Class passengers had been seated. But the journey itself was a disaster – the storms made one of two lines on the route impassable due to flooding (it was announced) and the other line was closed due to a fatality on the line which the police deemed suspicious, so by 10:30pm we had only gotten as far as Reading and the service was cancelled. GWR were instead organising coaches for the remainder of the journey which we were told would get us to St Austell for 5am or so. Friends living in Reading who were due to join us the following day invited us to stay at their home instead and they would give us a lift to St Austell instead – a kind invitation which we accepted. The return Riviera Sleeper on the Sunday evening worked without incident. Fast Forward to attempting to recover our outward journey fares from GWR which was impossible. They kept rejecting our claim because the Sleeper wasn’t showing as cancelled in their IT systems – it simply never existed. And because we hadn’t actually reached St Austell with them they wouldn’t refund because we had abandoned the journey in Reading (albeit at the time we were supposed to arrive in St Austell so it would have been 7Hrs or so late if we had caught the coach). It was a case of “computer says no”. So much for delay repay. Fortunately I had booked with my Amex who refunded immediately when I explained it to them.

  • Lumma says:

    Looking at that timetable, if Plymouth is your destination, I’d probably prefer to take the 20.00 departure from Paddington and pay for a hotel in Plymouth for a similar amount that the berth upgrade costs

  • Novice says:

    Looks ancient. The aesthetic is not great inside the train.

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