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Review: we try Great Western’s Night Riviera Sleeper, from Paddington to Cornwall

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This is our review of Great Western Railway’s Night Riviera Sleeper train service from London Paddington to Devon and Cornwall. In my case, it was to Plymouth.

Regular readers may remember my review of the Caledonian Sleeper train from Euston to Scotland last year. We wanted to follow this up with a review of the UK’s only other sleeper train, from Paddington to Penzance.

GWR kindly provided my sleeper ticket from London’s Paddington Station to Plymouth and a return trip on the Pullman Dining train from Plymouth to London – review to follow.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

After my short stay in the GWR lounge on platform 1 at Paddington Station (see my review here), I headed over to Platform 8 for my sleeper train’s departure, a little walk away. I was told that it would normally depart from Platform 1 which is directly opposite the lounge.

The train’s scheduled departure is 11.45pm but it is available for boarding from c10.30pm. Given that my scheduled arrival time in Plymouth was 5.37am, early boarding gave me a chance for a half-decent sleep.

My train had four sleeper coaches and was apparently fully booked. This is no surprise because, as I found, it is a pleasant way to travel if you are into this kind of train adventure. More practically, you can save the cost of a hotel night.

Along a narrow long corridor are the cabins. These all have the same interior with two beds, which can be booked for single or double occupancy. When used as a double, the second person sleeps on a pull down bed above the first.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

Although small I settled in nicely to my cabin. My coach attendant gave a brief introduction to the temperature controls (it can get very hot!), the emergency light and how to close the door (hooked in the back near the floor).

The night table doubles as a sink with a towel and soap provided. There is no amenity kit. I also had a shallow wardrobe with hangers and two bottles of water. Your luggage should slide away under the bed.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

There were two spacious bathrooms at my end of the coach but no showers.

My cabin had a connecting door to the next cabin (locked obviously) which would allow the sleeper to be used for families – or a couple where no-one wanted the upper bunk!

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

Here is an example of how a cabin looks with the second bed out:

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

In case you were wondering how to swing on to the upper bed, a ladder unfolds from the side:

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

Before I went to bed I had a look into the bar coach. It looked a good space but it was too late for me to hang out.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

Below is the bar which is split in half. The end where I am standing is for cabin guests and behind the door it is for guests from the other coaches.

On the menu were snacks and sweet treats with hot and cold drinks. Breakfast is free if you are in a cabin. For everyone else, deals include a croissant/cake & hot drink at £4.30 or any porridge & hot drink at £5.60 – decent value!

I chose the latter as ‘to go’ option which meant that the staff would bring it to my cabin just before I got off the train.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

The bar coach has comfortable seating for two or for four people at tables:

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

…. or more relaxed lounging on a sofa:

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

I made sure I got all the pictures as quickly as possible and turned in for the night – I would have an early start in Plymouth tomorrow.

As with my Caledonian Sleeper experience, the journey was a bit rough in sections and very calm in others. The train moves relatively slowly and stands at stations for long periods, and I actually slept quite well. The beds are, of course, narrow so you need to adapt your sleeping position to the space.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

Below is my very hot breakfast ‘to go’. It helped me to bridge the time at Plymouth station in the very early morning before it was light enough to start on sightseeing (which, by the way, was more interesting and educational than I expected). Plymouth has no arrivals lounge – or any lounge, for that matter – which was a shame, but luckily it was a dry and pleasant morning.

Review: GWR's Night Riviera Sleeper train service

Whilst Plymouth is an early arrival at 5.37am – albeit we arrived 15 minutes late – it is a more sensible arrival time if you continue into Cornwall.

The full list of arrival times are (Sundays vary slightly, and my train seemed to be running to a slightly adapted timetable):

  • Taunton 02:37
  • Exeter St Davids 03:07
  • Newton Abbot 04:32
  • Plymouth 05:10
  • Liskeard 06:05
  • Bodmin Parkway 06:19
  • Lostwithiel 06:26
  • Par 06:34
  • St Austell 06:43
  • Truro 07:01
  • Redruth 07:17
  • Camborne 07:24
  • Hayle 07:34
  • St Erth 07:39
  • Penzance 07:50

Conclusion

My journey from Paddington to Plymouth was a good experience, and one I would recommend. The cabin worked in terms of space and functionality, I got some sleep (although the night was a bit short) and my hot ‘to go’ breakfast was a life saver in Plymouth at 5.50am!

I had the cabin to myself. I can imagine it could be a squeeze with two people and possibly suitcases, but it certainly isn’t impossible.

If you want to compare with my Caledonian Sleeper review, you can read it here. The two services are very different though – the Caledonian Sleeper saw a huge investment of Scottish Government money into new state-of-the-art rolling stock and is a longer journey. It is also more expensive than the Night Riviera Sleeper.

In terms of pricing, the supplement (on top of the cost of flexible Standard ticket or any First Class ticket – the website shows which allow a cabin upgrade) appears to be dynamically priced. The website says that cabin supplements start at £49 but in practice it seems to start at £79 one way for a single cabin, rising to £149 as cabins sell out.

The website says that twin cabins can be as low as £59 all-in but in pratice I found they were an additional £50 to £80 over the single cabin price – again, the supplement is dynamic. It makes sense to book early, especially as trains appear to sell out a few weeks in advance.

You can find out more about the Night Riviera Sleeper on the GWR website here.

In the final part of this series I will look at GWR’s Pullman Dining service.

Comments (52)

  • Bagoly says:

    I expect most readers understand American, but surely “bathroom” here means toilets, loss, WC, or lavatories?

    On trains I think sink rather than basin is justified.

  • yonasl says:

    I remember doing the sleeper train to Cadiz from Madrid in the early 90’s. You can now reach Cadiz or Malaga with the AVE in 3hrs for €29.

  • flyforfun says:

    We did this for our honeymoon The pictures look better than when I did it. It took a little while to get used to the sway of the train, but we got to sleep eventually.

    No hot breakfast for us back then, just tea, biscuits and some type of muesli bar.

    We came back on a Saturday and there is no sleeper service on Saturday nights. It was a long 5 hours from Plymouth. It wasn’t helped by a pair of women who joined us at our table sitting opposite us – leaving their husbands sitting elsewhere and despite there being plenty of space in the carriage. We had to avoid playing footsies and being dragged into their conversations. Thankfully they got off after 2 hours. If we ever do it again it will be the night sleeper back too!!

  • Tetra says:

    The Mark 3 Rolling Stock used by GWR has been very positively received by rail enthusiasts; compare this to the Mark 5 on the CS which has been heavily criticised for its poor ride and build quality. CAF built the Mark 5s, and they did an exceptionally shoddy job just as they always do with just about everything else they build for the UK market. Why the UK continues allowing itself to be ripped off by Hitachi and CAF while ignoring Stadler and their fantastic FLIT stock is beyond me.

    I also found GWR’s staff to be much more friendly than those on the CS. Indeed, GWR consistently has some of the best staff of all the TOCs in the UK. The staff on the CS seem more glad to get rid of you!

    That the Night Riviera costs less than half the price of even a Classic fare on the Caledonian is quite surprising, especially as the Night Riviera provides all the trimmings, while the Caledonian more or less treats you as a third-class citizen for having the gall to not shell out for a higher rate.

    • Londonsteve says:

      I suspect the tendency to buy poor quality rolling stock in the UK comes down solely to price. Stadler and Siemens are the Rolls Royce of trains but quality costs. Siemens trains run on Thameslink and some SWR services and you can really tell the difference in terms of quietness and ride comfort. The most egregious are those ghastly Hitachi IETs operated by GWR with their ironing board seats, bumpy ride and excessive wind noise. Apparently Hitachi expressed surprise when they learned the UK was planning to use them on journeys of up to 6 hours. I refuse to travel on them as they’re so uncomfortable.

  • Freeminder says:

    Shame you didn’t check out the bar – it’s quite a vibe after the train leaves. We ended up talking to another couple and having drinks whilst playing card games with them.

    That was the only boon however as the rooms are far too hot. I got to penzance having had no sleep due to the heat. I’d recommend anyone going that doesnt like sleeping in extreme heat to bring a mini fan.

  • Jeff Featherstone says:

    No accessibility for wheelchair users- AGAIN

    • Darren says:

      Although I suspect some areas of the train would be difficult, GWR advertise at least one wheelchair accessible cabin.

  • Pb says:

    As others have noted the ride on these coaches is superior to Caledonians newer stock
    If you want some fun book from Rome to Sicily in an Excelsior coach shower and loo included , train is shunted on to boat across Messina straits , wonderful first thing in the morning.

  • Mary says:

    Sorry you stopped at Plymouth. The views over the Tamar, bridges and river. And the water around Totnes in moonshine or early light are just glorious.Penzance and Truro have Night Riviera waiting rooms with full facilities, and yes there are wheelchair cabins.

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