Review: Kirkwall Hotel, Orkney (and a few tourist tips)

To see how you can spend your Avios on Loganair, which became an Avios ‘earn and burn’ partner on 31st March, I took an Avios redemption flight from Heathrow to Kirkwall in Orkney.

Part 1 of this article, which looks at what it’s like to fly on Loganair from Heathrow, is here. Avios flights on Loganair are excellent value because a cash ticket on this route is around £500 return in season.

This second part looks at my stay at the Kirkwall Hotel.

Unsurprisingly, Orkney does not have any hotels where you can earn or spend points. It doesn’t have many hotels at all, of course, and those that exist seem to book up fairly quickly in the tourist season.

The Kirkwall Hotel was still available for the three nights I needed so I booked in.

The hotel did not know that I would be reviewing it and I paid cash for my stay. The hotel website is here.

Getting to the Kirkwall Hotel

Having arrived by plane I took the bus from the airport to Kirkwall Travel Center (£2 fare). From there it is a 10 minute walk to the Kirkwall Hotel.

The hotel is located opposite the habour and marina with amazing views. The main building was built during Victorian times with a modern extension attached to the right. This houses the restaurant and function rooms and also contained my room, on the second floor.

First impression were very good, entering through a revolving door into the lobby lit up by a huge chandelier.

The reception is to the left and also functions as a shop with arts and crafts made in Orkney. The very friendly receptionist checked me in.

There is a functioning but rather ancient looking lift in the lobby which is still in use.

I took the stairs, which allowed me to spot a lovely feature. The hotel has a vast collection of old photographs and postcards – all framed and hanging on the walls, with labels in English, French and German. You can wander forever through the corridors discovering aspects of Orkney’s eventful history.

My room at the Kirkwall Hotel

The hotel is relatively small with only 37 rooms, most of which were occupied by guests who were part of tour groups. There were only two rooms available when I booked and the most appealing was a Junior Suite with Sea View.

My suite opened to a short narrow corridor leading to the spacious and inviting bedroom. The suite interior must have been renovated fairly recently as it looked quite new, although not all spaces in the hotel are like this.

It was tastefully decorated with tweed fabrics, a large comfy bed and high headboard. The room wasn’t entirely sound proofed, unfortunately, and I could hear my neighbours watching TV.

My sitting room was next door and was a really cosy space with a sofa, wardrobe and armchair. In reality it was more like a full suite than a Junior Suite.

Coffee and tea facilities were available as well as fresh water. I especially appreciated the small cafetiere with a small tin of ground coffee by Orkney Roastery.

Unfortunately there was no fridge. I had bought a few Orkney delicacies in town which I wanted to store but had to eat them instead!

My favorite corner was by the desk. This was comfortable and practical with sockets for phone and laptop.

The Guest Information book and Visitor Guide provided were excellent, I thought, with useful tips on what to do in Orkney, transportation and collaborations between the hotel and local businesses. Very helpful, especially if – like me – you have arrived without a firm plan!

The bathroom looked stylish and was spacious but could have done with more surfaces to place toiletries. The window sill was just sufficient but not ideal.

The bathroom had a very large diameter rain shower but was not really practical to use as the water pressure was not strong. I ended up using the handheld shower.

Toiletries, including conditioner, are provided by Scottish brand Sea Kelp.

I loved the view from my windows. There was constant life with ferries coming and going to the outer isles, fishing boats bringing in hand-dived Orkney scallops, service vessels carrying equipment, pilot boats moving etc.

Highland Park Bar

The Highland Park Bar is lovely. Decorated as a library, with a shiny bar in copper and rustic seating it feels very welcoming. It was popular with guests for pre-and post-dinner drinks.

Breakfast at Harbour View Restaurant

A Scottish breakfast is served in the Habour View restaurant. The very large room is divided in the middle with bench seating and tables arranged all around it.

The restaurant is an attractive space with large windows and artwork on the walls, with tables laid bistro-style.

This is the Scottish breakfast buffet with a number of warm dishes, small pastries, yoghurt, toast and some cereals. It is not extensive as you can see:

One tray contained haggis, black pudding and pork sausages:

Service was fast and attentive and coffee was served quickly. This is my breakfast on the first morning, taken just from the buffet.

On the second morning I discovered that there is a menu of additional items, placed (slightly oddly) above the toaster!

Smoked salmon, a vegetarian breakfast, porridge and grilled kipper & butter are available to order. As there are no menus on the table I missed it on the first day. I switched to porridge for the next two mornings.

Dinner at Harbour View Restaurant

The Habour View Restaurant is very popular with guests and locals alike and was very busy during dinner service. During check in I was advised to book a table which I did on each day.

The menu is quite extensive including chef’s and daily specials. Here’s is a typical meal I had.

For my starter I had local hand-dived Pierowall scallops with black pudding, pea puree and crispy bacon from the chef’s specials (£18.50). It was very good.

For my main I went with the daily special, not on the menu, of beef stroganoff which was tasty too (£14.95).

My dessert was fruit crumble with custard (£10.50) from the normal menu which I enjoyed so much that I had it on two nights.

Overall I ate well here and it was very good value for money. Unlike so many restaurants in London who are struggling to find staff there seemed to be no shortage here. The service was very swift and very friendly too.

Harbour Lounge

On the first floor is a large and bright lounge where you can relax. I only discovered it when I happened to pass by.

The room is lovely but lacked a bit atmosphere. The furniture arrangement and layout was not given as much attention as the bar and the restaurant and the space could be better used. Next to the lounge is a large function room as well.

Skippers Bar

On the ground floor you will also find the busy sports bar Skippers. Whilst technically part of the hotel, you hardly notice that it is there as the bar has its own entrance from a side street.

Conclusion

My room at the Kirkwall Hotel was modern, very comfortable and cosy. The sea view was amazing. I can’t deny that the hotel was showing wear and tear in places but the overall standard was good and the staff very friendly.

Breakfast was missing some freshness and variety, especially when you are there for three days. Dinner, on the other hand, was very good and I enjoyed what I ate.

My Junior Suite, for a weekend in May, was £285 per night including breakfast. Over the peak summer months no-view ‘classic’ rooms seem to start at £229 although, even booking 2-3 months in advance, availability is tight.

If you decide to redeem Avios on Loganair flights to Orkney, you will find the Kirkwall Hotel a good option to stay. The hotel website is here.

What did I do?

I had two full days in Orkney. I decided not to hire a car for a short stay and see what public transport – which is surprisingly efficient – had to offer.

One day I spent in Kirkwall, walking by the harbour and along Albert Street the main street. I visited the impressive St. Magnus Cathedral and saw the ruins of the Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces.

I started the second day with a visit to Stromness (a bus day ticket was £10). This is a picturesque town with pretty shops and cafes – I had a delicious matcha latte in chic Flori cafe. I visited Stromness Museum which is ram-packed with Orkney history, including the role of the island in the two wars. The Pier Arts Centre was also impressive.

I then took a second bus to the breathtaking Skara Brae. I spent several hours here enjoying the amazing beach and watching surfers, the well-preserved pre-historic village and Skaill House. This is definitely not to be missed, however short your trip to Orkney.