Sacred Valley (Peru) – tour company recommendation

[zio]

A few other notes, not all of which strictly fall under “Sacred Valley”. Sorry, long post, but something may help someone…

Like @meta my experience (as diamond) was that the Hilton Lima Miraflores is a very impressive hotel. I stayed 3 times (6 nights in all) as I made my way around Peru. Example, final night I arrived at 1940. Upgraded to junior suite (for the 2nd time), my left luggage had already been taken to the room. Offer made to take my other luggage to the room if I wanted to go straight to the lounge (closes at 2030, but they were fine with me taking some food and a beer back to my room, where welcome macaroons were waiting). Conversation then went “Do you have an idea when you are leaving tomorrow?” – “I need to leave for the airport at 4.15” – “4.15 in the morning?” – “No, in the afternoon.” – “In that case we will give you a 4pm checkout.”

The free breakfast is also an extraordinary 4 course affair if you can manage it!

And they cared about finding me somewhere I could watch the Chelsea-Spurs match on Sunday morning.

In Cusco I stayed in the Hilton Garden Inn. Excellent staff, well run. As seems to be the way for HGIs, upgrade options are limited. I got a courtyard balcony king room, which I think is their top room category, on my first stay.  No upgrade on the 2nd (one night) stay, but a 2pm checkout as requested.

The hotel is at the top of a steep climb.  It needs fitness or a taxi on the way back from town.  It’s reasonably priced but if you aren’t tied to Hilton there are definitely better hotels in the centre.

If renting a car, try Sixt but don’t leave it until the last minute. By the time I got round to it, the only place I could find with a car was PeruRentalCar on Calle Saphy. They aren’t crooks but the only car available (an aged manual Toyota Ineos) was without doubt the worst car I have ever driven. Says something about the car and the roads that they seemed more interested in checking the spare wheel than the bodywork.

I used Inca Rail (bimodal service) to get from Cusco to Machu Picchu. Very impressed with the organisation and punctuality. I’m not sure they would have been any better than Peru Rail in a situation such as that faced by @meta but I could have no complaints at all.

Sites in the Sacred Valley:
Pisac- very impressive archaeological site. I found parking on market day stressful. Guess I should have got up earlier…
Chinchero- my personal favourite, very peaceful and good artisan craft shopping around.
Moray- interesting terraces, a bit different from elsewhere.
Salinas- interesting in itself (think Pamukkale), but not much to it. Go early or late as I’d say it isn’t worth a long queue to get into the small car park.
Ollantaytambo- interesting and extensive site. For a different perspective and fewer people, try Pinkuylluna, the site on the other side of the modern town- from the ruins of Ollantaytambo you can see it on the hillside opposite. Cheap parking just around the bend past the site of Ollantaytambo (estacionamiento acceso Ollantaytambo on Google Maps).
Machu Picchu- yes, the view from the top near the entrance really is that good. 3 hours will be enough for most people to see everything. I found the one way system a bit restrictive, and you certainly don’t want to miss out on the famous view by doing one of the “low” routes. The restriction on numbers means it isn’t a complete zoo. If you get there at 6 you won’t have much company, but otherwise don’t expect peace and solitude in which to contemplate the beauty of your surroundings.
Rainbow mountain- it’s painful but it’s worth getting a tour leaving Cusco at 3am. You will likely be on a minibus of back-packers, but crucially you will be ahead of the crowd. If you arrive with the big tour groups it will be a real scrum to get the photo you are going for. The “red mountain/valley” next to the famous mountain gives better views overall, and will be almost empty, but you can’t see the rainbow stripes from it. It was an optional extra walk for the tour I was on (10 soles payable at the start of the trail, and 10 at the viewpoint).

Internal flights- I used LATAM throughout and was lucky (no delays or cancellations) but was also impressed by their organisation. I took @meta’s advice and booked premium economy. Apart from the blocked middle seat and snack this does get priority boarding, and perhaps more usefully priority disembarkation and priority baggage that actually does arrive first. At every Peruvian airport, though, you can see how a small problem could quickly escalate into huge queues.

Finally, OT, Doubletree Iquitos. Almost certainly the most upscale hotel in town, so possibly it doesn’t feel it has to try. No mention of status and no sign of an upgrade (2 one night stays).

MAD-LIM/LIM-MAD-LHR Iberia A350 redemption in J. Knocked spots off my BA Club Suite redemption to MIA at Easter, with only a quarter of the cash component. Not hating on BA, just sayin’…

Overall a terrific holiday. Friendly people, excellent food, interesting things to see and do.

[JDB]

@zio thank you for a wonderful and helpful trip report; sounds a great holiday.

I’m quite surprised how little we read on HfP about South America that holds so much in terms of vast unspoilt scenery, great activities, world class food, friendly people, good hotel/transport facilities, plus truly incredible value vs the more obvious places and it’s as much for families, even with youngish children, as solo/couples.

[meta]

I agree it’s great. It’s not as popular as it’s far to get to. Families don’t want to travel 11h+. Plus there is still this image that it is not safe.

On my travel to Peru in April I hardly saw any European tourists other than at Machu Picchu.

[meta]

@Rob @Rhys perhaps the thread could be renamed to Peru or Sacred Valley recommendations. It’s outgrown its original intention.

[RV]

Resurrecting this topic! Long shot but let’s see 🙂

zio wrote:

A few other notes, not all of which strictly fall under “Sacred Valley”. Sorry, long post, but something may help someone…

If renting a car, try Sixt but don’t leave it until the last minute. By the time I got round to it, the only place I could find with a car was PeruRentalCar on Calle Saphy. They aren’t crooks but the only car available (an aged manual Toyota Ineos) was without doubt the worst car I have ever driven. Says something about the car and the roads that they seemed more interested in checking the spare wheel than the bodywork.

How was your overall experience driving around the Sacred Valley? I am spending four days there early June, and have just booked a free cancellation car with Sixt. However I saw so many mixed reviews about driving in Peru that I am still unsure!

Yesterday I sent my day by day itinerary (which is very similar to yours, except for the rainbow mountains), to a private taxi company (https://taxidatum.com) for a quote. Even if the prices are reasonable I’d still prefer the flexibility of driving around myself and doing things in my own time. But if the roads are quite bad then it’s another story.

[masaccio]

RV wrote:

How was your overall experience driving around the Sacred Valley? I am spending four days there early June, and have just booked a free cancellation car with Sixt. However I saw so many mixed reviews about driving in Peru that I am still unsure!

The reason for mixed reviews is because people have different expectations of what safe driving is.

Do you drive defensively and can hold the space around you in London or do you find yourself in fear of your life from other drivers?

Do you freak out when obstacles appear like the road disappearing into a hole (!) or do you drive anticipating stuff like this to happen?

Do other drivers cut you up and you jump on the horn, or do you just expect it and mutter “Figures” to yourself when it happens?

[meta]

I really enjoyed having the car and the flexibility. It meant we never saw any tourist bus apart from at Salinas where we also had a situation (two buses and us) where we had to reverse on a very narrow road looking down the cliff. Other than that the conditions were fine, it’s just that some roads in the towns are narrow and systems are usually one-way.

[RV]

meta wrote:

I really enjoyed having the car and the flexibility. It meant we never saw any tourist bus apart from at Salinas where we also had a situation (two buses and us) where we had to reverse on a very narrow road looking down the cliff. Other than that the conditions were fine, it’s just that some roads in the towns are narrow and systems are usually one-way.

Thank you! If the roads are fine I can deal with the rest I think. We’re staying in Urubamba which is very central so a car will make life so much easier.

And @masaccio yes you’re right. Especially looking at Tripadvisor the majority of the posts seems to be from Americans, who are used to very different types of roads and driving standards!

@Zio I am sorry I just noticed that I accidentally reported your post when trying to click Quote. The buttons are so close! I’m sure the HfP team will see that it was a mistake, as your post has loads of valuable information.

[Colin MacKinnon]

@masaccio
“Do other drivers cut you up and you jump on the horn, or do you just expect it and mutter “Figures” to yourself when it happens?”

Do I get extra points for “jump on the horn, take both hands off the wheel and wave them in the air and shout in the local language”?

[zio]

@RV There were some undeniably interesting moments: I wouldn’t drive in the dark from Cusco as you could lose a cow down some of the potholes; there was a road closure so that leaving Moray meant a cross country detour quite far from anything known to Google maps – I just followed the dust cloud in front; and I totally recognise @meta’s experience at Salinas.
For all that I would absolutely hire a car again. The flexibility and freedom are unbeatable.
As @massacio says, it’s all about expectations and confidence.

Edit- forgot to say… enjoy it! I’m sure you’ll have a fabulous time.

[meta]

We drove from Cuzco airpot to Urubamba partially at night due to issues with flights and it was fine. We took the shorter route via Chinchero if I remember correctly as we were advised this is the better road for driving at night. I’d say getting out of Cuzco is your main hurdle, but nothing unmanageable.

Yes, I’d hire the car anytime. Nothing beats being able to stop and enjoy the scenery of the Andes.

[RV]

Thank you @Zio and @meta!

Decision made, I’m sticking with the car.

Btw as a data point if anyone is interested in the future: Taxidatum quoted USD 220 for the full trip (Itinerary below). I got the car from Sixt for USD 159 for the four days. Quite similar in the end all things considered. If someone doesn’t feel like driving Taxidatum is def. a good option.

Itinerary for USD 220:
Day 1: Transfer from Cusco to Urubamba
Day 2: Pisac market + ruins (from Urubamba)
Day 3: From Urubamba to Ollantaytambo train station in the morning. Returning in the evening.
Day 4: Maras, Moray and Chinchero (from Urubamba)
Day 5: Transfer from Urubamba to Cusco

[ABA]

@RV thank you for the itinerary and the price for a taxi, added to my notes.

[meta]

If you are arriving reasonably early to Cuzco, I suggest you do Chinchero as a short detour from the main road to Urubamba. Maras and Moray is almost full day. You’ll have to rush one of three otherwise. Depending on your flight on day 5, you can do the other route to Cuzco and do Pisac market and ruins. It will save you time.

And really Ollaytantambo ruins are amazing and there is so much stuff to do there (some really great restaurants and distillery).

Don’t underestimate the altitude, build in the time to rest unless you know you don’t have problems with it.