Ski resorts from Chambery (non skiers)

[captaindave]

Hi all

The good lady and myself are looking to book a package with Crystal Holidays, flying to Chambery from Exeter ( our favourite airport 🙂 ) from 28 Dec for a week.

Neither of us have ever skied, and won’t be starting as I’m 64 with shot knees and she’s nearly 60 with intermittent back issues… but we are very young at heart, and would like a resort with lively apres-ski , and interesting stuff to do in daytime.

We have discounted the self catering place, and the resorts left are ( in no particular order) Flaine. Les arcs. Tigres, les menuires, les deux alpes, brides les bains, la plagne, avoriaz. Alpe d huez. La clusaz. La rosiere, St sorlin d arves, morzine, and finally la toussuire…

Ideally would like a hotel that looks like a typical alpine lodge, have made a note of the hotels crystal offers in each resort, but probably best to narrow resort choice first.

Appreciate any advice/ experiences as we are clueless about ski resorts, and that part of France.

Thank you

[jj]

Based on what you say you’re looking for, the problem you have is that most of the large French resorts are new post-war villages purpose-built for skiing in a brutalist style. Expect concrete tower blocks everywhere, sometimes with a thin veneer of timber and stone applied retrospectively to soften the egregious ugliness of the original structure. Tigne and Les Arc are two of the worst examples of this. For a traditional village feel, you would be much better looking at Switzerland, Austria or, possibly, Italy.

I don’t know all these resorts, but many are too small to offer much non-skiing activity. Wherever you go, put yourself in the centre of the town.

I’m surprised that you haven’t mentioned Val d’Isere, as you’ve listed several other resorts in the same valley. Despite being largely post-war, the central area of Val is surprisingly attractive with pleasant Savoie architecture, lots of good restaurants and a range of things for non-skiers to do. Could it be added?

[dundj]

Like @jj mentions, Val is a nice skiing town. Personally, of the options mentioned though I would choose Morzine as it is a very nice village, though I spent three Summers there as a teenager for cycling around the Alps, and not au fait with how it is during the Winter.

Reason being it is in the valley so more of a base for skiers rather than the ski resort itself which is up at Avoraiz.

[captaindave]

Cheers for the feedback both 👍

@jj – there was only one property listed for val d’isere with Crystal, and that was self catering.

We normally book flights and accommodation separately, but for first timers feel safer with package.

@dundj – yep one of the hotels I liked the look of was in Morzine ( hotel sporting) gets mostly good reviews, although a couple on a 4 day alcohol blitz received an amusing response to their complaints from the hotel owners 😀 ( on TA)

[dundj]

@captaindave I’m aware of Le Sporting, one of the good, old family owned chalets. I’d suggest a Superior Room if at all possible. I used to live with a family as I raced with their son around France and Italy.

[The real Swiss Tony]

I think the big flaw here is the fact you’re focused on France and in my mind the French take their skiing so seriously that it’s just not a fun place to be. Doubly so at that time of year which will be a peak travel week.

As @jj points out, Austria or Switzerland would be far better. I think the response also failed to flag Flaine as incredibly ugly (the brutalist architecture is indeed celebrated by some). But if you are wedded to being on a flight out of Exeter, the ski choices do indeed seem to be Chambray or nothing.

The other issue you have with France is the massive over-weighting in accommodation towards self catering (or catered chalets). Hotels are relatively limited. I would echo the idea that Morzine is probably a good call. It’s low enough that it shouldn’t be stupidly cold, it’s a big enough town to provide some distractions, and the gondolas running out of either side of town have some form of eatery at the top if you do want to venture up the hill.

[EwanG]

@captaindave Given you are flying to CMF I’d personally head east or maybe a bit south, and rule out Flaine, Avoriaz and Morzine, as these northern Alps resorts are significantly easier to reach from GVA (60-90 mins), and as a Saturday and key changeover day 28 Dec will be busy.
You’re asking for quite a lot and think you’ll need to compromise on something!

Down the valley from Les Menuires is the resort of St Martin de Belleville, or at the other end of the 3 valleys area you have Meribel, both are quite attractive. Meribel has the better apres – Ronnie’s / the Rond Point very popular!
Are either resort an option to add?
I suggest narrowing down from CMF based on accessibility first. Telegraph Travel always have good articles on ski resorts, inc for non-skiers.

[jj]

captaindave wrote:

We normally book flights and accommodation separately, but for first timers feel safer with package.

Don’t hesitate to book separately if that works best for you. To be fair, though, companies like Crystal can often offer quite good value outside school holidays, as private transfers are often expensive to ski resorts, and much accommodation is block-booked in advance.

If you’re used to booking summer trips separately, you have a couple of gotchas that you need to look out for.

First, don’t hire a car, or you will need a Plan B if it’s snowing heavily when you arrive unless you are an experienced winter driver. Book a private transfer instead (loads are available if you Google) and swallow the cost.

Second, don’t arrive on a Saturday (unless, of course, you have no choice or are certified as insane), as almost all skiers take Saturday as the changeover day, and the infrastructure can’t cope. Roads will have epic tailbacks, especially if it’s snowing; airports will have queues just to enter the terminal building, and, once inside, the place will resemble Wembley Stadium during an international gmae; transfers will be booked months in advance; and even motorway service stations will have toilet queues so vast that future historians will write dissertations about them. Many hotels require a Saturday-Saturday booking but not all do; stay in one of the enlightened few.

If you follow those two simple rules, it’s really no harder to book a winter holiday than a summer one.

[captaindave]

Many thanks for the further info, really appreciated 👏

Some really useful stuff in there, like avoiding Saturday arrivals/departures, don’t hire a car, les francais won’t appreciate us getting in the way on the slopes 🙂 etc..

Don’t be mad with me… but having digested the info above, OH and I had a chat and decided to abort the mission ( sorry rewatched the Bourne Trilogy yesterday, ) obviously with it being over the NY period, prices were poppy, ie 1808 pp for a week at the hotel sporting in Morzine, couldn’t justify it especially as we won’t be skiing.

BUT, I now have a cunning plan… ANDORRA !! Thinking fly to Barcelona, then bus or private transfer to Arinsal or Pas de ??, but that might be too much party central. Would have to fly from Brizzle on Ryanair.
I better start a separate thread…

[jj]

If, as you said, you want a traditional Alpine vibe, Andorra isn’t the answer to your question.

Why not get a flight to Venice or Milan (two big cities that aren’t really infected by ski mania) and transfer to somewhere in the Dolomites? Italian resorts are more likely to be low-rise and traditional, and the food is infinitely better than in any other Alpine country.

Or, perhaps even better, fly to Munich and go to an Austrian resort like Zell am See. You can get there by train, there’s loads to do beside skiing, it’s super-pretty, and you have a range of easily accessible and interesting day trips such as visiting Salzburg.

[dundj]

@jj has a good suggestion of flying to Munich, though I’d take a train to Oberstdorf (smaller town/village vibe) or Garmisch-Partenkirchen (larger town, more to do). Also, from G-P can take the train to Innsbruck for a day trip. Though, reading you are going over the NY period conicides with the Four Hills Ski Jumping so is usually highly priced, and also low availability.

Therefore, Zell am See might be a great alternative.

[The real Swiss Tony]

@captaindave I think you’re making the right call there. I was looking a few weeks back and the Grand Hotel in Zell had short break availability over New Year. As the name suggests it’s a grand hotel rather than a chocolate box chalet, mind.

But the prices will be toppy because demand is always outstripping supply at that time of year. £1800 for a week HB in Morzine over new year sounds like a bit of a bargain. Decent hotels in Austrian ski resorts will charge £150-£200 per person per night based on two sharing. Admittedly that’s Half Board and the food is invariably wonderful, but I think you need to be realistic as to how much this will cost.

A cheaper option might be to go to Munich for a few days. Many good hotels will be quiet (so cheap) then take the train as a day trip to somewhere like (as noted) Garmisch (1hr) or Kitzbuhel (2hrs). Obviously plays havoc with your plan of flying from Exeter….

[yonasl]

Just scanning the thread so don’t know if this has been mentioned already. French resorts will be charging you a premium to stay up in the mounting next to the slopes. You also won’t have much to do other than skiing and will find restaurants and bars more expensive (not to mention it is weird not to skii). As a non skier you cannot care less about all this. If I wanted to experience the “winter season” with some snow, mountain food and drinking I would fly to Italy or Germany/Austria. So Turin, Milan, Munich, Innsbruck could work. i would rent a car and then drive around the Alps on either Italy or Austria.

[louie]

Perfect timing. Hubby and friends are wanting to do a ski break in January for the first time in many years; I’m happy to go but skiing doesn’t greatly thrill me. Keep the comments coming!

[blitz18qb]

Like others have mentioned – The new year week is peak peak season and everywhere will be rammed. If you can wait until the 2nd or 3rd week of Jan and everyone’s back to work/school, resorts are a lot quieter and cheaper.

Did 3 ski seasons around that area – including driving transfers from Chambery. Meribel or Val d’isere would have enough to keep non skiers entertained…whilst still having some Savoyard Charm. Plenty of snow shoeing if you don’t want to ski. You can get non-skiing passes for the lifts so you can still enjoy the mountain restaurants (and prices😧).

I’ll be heading to South Korea in 5 weeks looking for colder weather – it’s 31C in Bangkok right now 🥵

[captaindave]

Apologies for going AWOLfrom a thread I started, I know that’s bad form…. anyway I’m still looking into options, just that I moved to a new place a week or so ago, and that’s been taking up a lot of my time…

[captaindave]

Had some zell am see accommodation pop up on booking.com alert.

Apartments Kitzsteinhorn.

1200 euros 4 nights 30/12 to 03/01 check out.
For 2 adults in a 2 bed, 1 living room, 1 bathroom apt.
5100 feet from centre apparently, and near a lake.

Anyone know of this place ?

[captaindave]

Ignore the previous post….

Got it all booked up today !

Exeter to Edinburgh.via loganair. Then train to Aviemore, hotel booked also.

Recommendations for restaurants/ bars for NYE appreciated 👏

Researching if there is a tartan for my name now, and where to get fur lined boxers 🙂

[EwanG]

That’s good news. Some suggestions: Think The Cairngorm Hotel or Doo Below would be two good options for Hogmanay

The Old Bridge Inn has never failed to disappoint for a meal.

How long will you be there?

[dundj]

@captaindave not sure if there will be a points angle on any undergarments I am about to proffer, but always worth a look. Uniqlo Heattech Ultra t-shirt and leggings are very good for keeping warm. Also, on Sport Pursuit they currently have Thermowave search for that brand and look for the 3 in 1 range which is for the coldest temperatures or Extreme for cold temperatures.

Both fit very well and do a great job as base layers. There’s also icebreaker too, though they will be more expensive and you’d want 260 or higher.

[captaindave]

@EwanG – thanks for the suggestions 😀 it’s a Mon to Fri break, 30/12 to 03/01, but we won’t get to hotel till around 8pm on the Monday, so we’ll prob quickly dump our stuff then head out. And on the Friday we have to get a very early train back to Edinburgh, so in reality 3 full days in Aviemore.

My Mrs managed to get last room at the Ravenscraig hotel, I haven’t had a good look at it yet, but she was happy to get booked there, looks like it’s pretty central.
Ps: sorry for the hogmanay mistake 😅
Hoping the bar manager at the hotel is a fan of Super John Mcginn, as I have a special design SJM beer mat that I want to leave with them..

@dundj – cheers for the clothing pointers, will take a look 👌

[captaindave]

Booked the old bridge inn to eat early evening on hogmanay…. also got tickets for the party there which has a band, and few DJs.
Missed the £10 early bird tickets ( apparently sold out in 5 mins ) but the regular ticket prices were reasonable anyway

[Michael C]

dundj wrote:

Uniqlo Heattech

Our entire family are decked out in various forms of these (love that
there are lighter ones) from now to Easter!

captaindave wrote:

Booked the old bridge inn to eat early evening on hogmanay…

Sounds fabulous!

[dundj]

If anyone needs Uniqlo Heattech Ultra Warm clothing, Uniqlo have their Arigato sale on with £5 off each item.

Sign up to their app, and you seem to receive £10 off a £70 spend too as a voucher.

[The real Swiss Tony]

Quite the pivot swapping the Alps for Scotland – although as non-skiers at least you won’t be disappointed by the lack of snow or painfully overcrowded slopes that will inevitable one way or the other at that time of year!

Going to look at that Uniqlo clothing. Anyone have any recommendations on good (warm) ski gloves that don’t cost more than a flight to the Alps???