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Review: The Ritz-Carlton Abama, Tenerife – five star luxury in the Canary Islands

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This is our review of The Ritz-Carlton Abama hotel on Tenerife in the Canary Islands.

I stayed at The Ritz-Carlton on a recent press trip as the guest of British Airways to promote the launch of short haul flights at Gatwick for the first time in two years.

The hotel is also currently running an offer for British Airways Holiday bookings – more on that below.

The hotel website is here.

Ritz-Carlton Abama citadel

Where is The Ritz-Carlton Abama?

The resort is outside the main tourist towns in the south of the island, between Playa San Juan and La Calleta. Tenerife South airport, where British Airways flies, is just 25 minutes away by taxi.

Ritz carlton abama location

It’s worth explaining the layout of the resort before I go on. The main building of the property, called the Citadel, has the majority of rooms.

From the Citadel to the El Mirador clifftop restaurant are four descending terraces or streets featuring villas. I’ve turned the map sideways to fit into the page better:

Ritz Carlton Abama map

‘Villas’ is a bit of a misnomer a these are two story buildings with around 6-8 rooms per building. Each street has its own private pool.

Ritz-Carlton Abama arival

Inside The Ritz-Carlton Abama

The hotel itself, which opened in 2005, is reminiscent of Moroccan kasbahs. The building is fairly iconic – a hulking red ochre Moorish-inspired citadel that has all sorts of angles and corners.

Inside is a big lobby, refurbished in 2019 with a boho feel:

Ritz-Carlton Abama lobby 2

It was the busiest I’ve seen a hotel in some time thanks to a wedding and corporate event – it’s nice to finally see travel picking up again. (This photo was taken later when it had calmed down.)

As I was on a press trip I won’t comment on the check-in experience as things are done slightly differently for groups but it all went smoothly.

What’s the difference between citadel and villa rooms?

I was given a villa room.

The Ritz-Carlton Abama features three main room categories – the entry level deluxe room, a junior suite and a suite. Both the citadel and the villas feature all three room types, and at the moment they feature the same hard product.

This will change soon when the resort embarks on a €20 million refurbishment which will see the villa rooms refurbished to a higher spec than those in the citadel.

Ritz-Carlton Abama villas

The main difference at the moment is the level of service you can expect. The villas are, in effect, club rooms. Pre-covid this meant use of The Ritz-Carlton Club in the citadel, but since covid the resort has rolled out club benefits at all the villa pools. This includes complimentary beer, wine and soft drinks. There’s also a cocktail happy hour between 5pm and 6pm.

Anyone in a suite or junior suite in the villas also gets a dedicated golf buggy to drive around.

The adults-only infinity pool at El Mirador is reserved exclusively for villa guests and you also get a higher quality breakfast, also served at El Mirador. In some ways the villas are like a hotel within a hotel.

Looking at feedback online about the hotel – and indeed in the HfP comments over the years – it does appear that the ‘citadel’ experience overall is poorer. The gap will only increase following the villa room refurbishment.

Villa rooms at The Ritz-Carlton Abama

I was on the lower ground floor of the building. The deluxe rooms are big, with hallway and wardrobes as you enter:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa hallway

The very last wardrobe door features the mini bar, including a stocked mini fridge (technically a cooler) as well as a Nespresso machine and safe:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa wardrobe

and

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa mini bar

To the left is the bathroom:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa bathroom

This comes with a bathtub as well as separate shower:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa shower toilet

A big thumbs up for the towel rails from me. You can’t always rely on them at 5* hotels! Toiletries are by Asprey, as is standard for The Ritz-Carlton:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa asprey toiletries

In the room you have a large king size bed:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa room

The sheets smelled wonderful – I think the hotel staff spray something on them at turn-down. It was lovely – just a hint of vanilla, not too overpowering.

Connectivity is good, with plug sockets on either side as well as a radio clock with a USB socket:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa bedside

To the right of the bed is a chaise longue and coffee table:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa sofa

On the other side of the room is a round dining table:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa dining table

Opposite the bed is a long console table/desk, luggage rack and large TV:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa console tv

As I was on the ground floor I had a little garden terrace with direct access to the pool:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa garden view

The design of the room isn’t exactly the most trendy but I didn’t find it particularly dated either, and everything was still in very good nick. It is a little on the plain side – there was lots of beige and cream – and it will be interesting to see what the hotel does when they are renovated. I suspect the rooms will look more like the lobby, with a bit more character.

Turn-down was performed every night with the curtains closed, the duvet folded back and a sheet put down for your feet.

Pools, beach, gym at The Ritz-Carlton Abama

There are seven pools (I think) at the resort – plenty enough to go around. Each villa street has its own pool which span the length of the buildings:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa pool

Complementary drinks are served all day.

There is also the adults-only infinity pool at El Mirador, although in truth only a small portion of it is ‘infinity’:

Ritz-Carlton Abama infinity pool

The infinity pool is only for villa guests. There are three further pools at the citadel for all other guests, including a large lagoon pool that is dominated by families.

There is a small pool by the persian garden which I imagine is a lovely quiet spot, whilst another big pool is on the ground floor on the other side of the hotel. Both of these pools are much quieter simply because they are harder to find whilst the lagoon pool is unavoidable.

Ritz-Carlton Abama private pool

As far as I know, all the pools are heated. If you’ve ever been in the Balearics in the winter you’ll know this can’t be taken for granted!

The Ritz-Carlton Abama also has a virtually private beach. Whilst no beaches in Spain are private, the remoteness means that it is used by few other people. Access is via a steep path, or you can opt for the hotel funicular or hotel land train:

Ritz-Carlton Abama beach funicular

or

Ritz-Carlton Abama land train

Like almost all beaches on Tenerife it is artificial, created with Saharan sand:

Ritz-Carlton Abama beach

I was surprised to see how busy the beach club was – it was by much busier than the pools, with virtually all the loungers occupied. The water is crystal clear although it is just 18 degrees in late March!

During covid The Ritz-Carlton Abama closed its indoor gym and shifted a lot of equipment outdoors. It has chosen to retain this, which I think is a great idea:

Ritz-Carlton Abama outdoor gym

The full gym has re-opened and you can find a greater variety of machines and weights there.

The Ritz-Carlton also features an extensive spa:

Ritz-Carlton Abama villa spa

There is also a lovely spa area with a warm pool:

Ritz-Carlton Abama spa pool

…. plus a sauna, steam room, pluge pool etc.

Restaurants at The Ritz-Carlton Abama

The isolated nature of the resort means that the nearest towns and restaurants are 15 minutes or so away by car. Fortunately you are spoilt for choice at The Ritz-Carlton Abama, as the resort features two Michelin starred restaurants (MB with two stars and Kabuki with one) as well as a number of more casual options.

On my first night we ate at El Mirador, which is open to all guests for lunch and dinner and focusses on seafood. The salmorejo starter was delicious:

Ritz-Carlton Abama El Mirador salmarejo

As was the sea bass:

Ritz-Carlton Abama El Mirador sea bass

On the second night we were invited to MB, headed by Spanish chef Martin Berasategui. It was the first restaurant in Tenerife to earn a Michelin star and now has two. We had the ‘Great Classics’ tasting menu but there is more in-depth tasting menu as well as an a la carte menu. If you choose the longer tasting menu you might be there for some time given the ‘short’ Classics menu had ten courses and went on for four hours.

Ritz-Carlton Abama MB

I won’t bore you with every dish but here are a couple of my favourites. The caramelized millefeuille with smoked eel and foie-gras was absolutely incredible – defiitely one of the most delicious things I have ever tasted:

Ritz-Carlton Abama MB millefeuille

The red tuna tartar, with local tuna fished in the straits between Abama and the island of La Gomera, was also fantastic:

Ritz-Carlton Abama MB tuna tartar

Here is the Galician beef fillet:

Ritz-Carlton Abama MB steak

And, for dessert, a warm apple tart in a funky ceramic apple:

Ritz-Carlton Abama MB apple tart

The food was incredible, although Spain hasn’t quite caught up with the vegan wave. Tom, from Business Traveller, was mostly served dishes of shaved vegetables rather than any substantial proteins.

Breakfast at El Mirador at The Ritz-Carlton Abama

As I wrote above, one of the key differences for citadel vs villa rooms is the breakfast offering. All villa guests are invited to have breakfast at El Mirador, which offers al fresco dining and beautiful ocean views:

Ritz-Carlton Abama El Mirador

and

Ritz-Carlton Abama El Mirador seating

The breakfast consisted of a buffet, although the majority was not self-serve:

Ritz-Carlton Abama El Mirador breafkast buffet

and

Ritz-Carlton Abama El Mirador breafkast buffet 2

Full English items were also available and looked very good, although I didn’t try them.

Egg dishes could be ordered from an a la carte menu. There is no fixed menu – you can order pretty much whatever you want. I went for eggs royal with avocado one morning:

Ritz-Carlton Abama El Mirador eggs royale

Whilst the next morning I opted for a traditional Spanish breakfast:

Ritz-Carlton Abama El Mirador spanish breakfast

Thoughts on The Ritz-Carlton Abama

In many ways, The Ritz-Carlton Abama villas are a hotel within a hotel, and your experience is likely to vary largely depending on whether you stay there or in the main building.

Although the room types are identical, the extra space and privacy afforded by the villas elevates the experience hugely, as does breakfast at El Mirador and all the inclusions such as the complementary poolside drinks and service.

It is quite possible to spend your entire time either at the villa pool or down at El Mirador and never stray up to the citadel except to try out the restaurants.

One thing that is worth mentioning is that you can end up doing quite a bit of walking. The resort is quite long and the citadel is right at the top. There is quite an incline from the top to the bottom. Fortunately, golf buggies and the resort land train are available if you don’t want to walk.

The other thing is that the resort signage is not as good as it should be. Getting around can be a bit of a guessing game and it would be good if the hotel had clearer and more frequent signage.

The Ritz-Carlton Abama is about to start a significant new refurbishment – the biggest one in its history – so it will be interesting to see how the new rooms will look when finished. The resort is starting from strong foundations.

How to book

Rooms start at around €300 per night whilst villas are around €450. Redemptions via Marriott Bonvoy start from around 40,000 points per night. You can find out more, and book, on the hotel website here.

You may find it makes more sense to book via BA Holidays, especially as you’ll only have to pay a deposit now. There are two offers currently available for travel in September:

  • Seven nights in a citadel deluxe room with Euro Traveller (economy) flights from £799 per person
  • Seven nights in a villa deluxe garden view room with Club Europe (business class) flights from £1,529 per person

You can still earn double tier points with BA Holidays for bookings up to the 22nd October and travel until the end of October. You can book on the BA Holidays website here.

If you don’t want a package, there is also Emyr.

Since 2017 we have partnered with Emyr Thomas who runs Bon Vivant, a London-based luxury travel agent. He works with The Ritz-Carlton, amongst other luxury brands, as a Preferred Partner and is able to guarantee a range of additional benefits when you book through him, including:

  • Upgrade on arrival, subject to availability
  • Breakfast for two guests per bedroom
  • $100 equivalent resort credit utilized during stay (not combinable, not valid on room rate, no cash value if not redeemed in full)
  • Early check-in/late check-out, subject to availability
  • Complimentary wi-fi

Emyr can usually match any rate offered via The Ritz-Carlton website and get you the above benefits added on. You pay on departure as usual.  You can contact Emyr via our online form here.

Our partnership with Emyr has been going for five years now and you will regularly see readers praising his service in the comments. It is well worth dropping him a note if you have any high-end hotel stays planned.


How to earn Marriott Bonvoy points and status from UK credit cards

How to earn Marriott Bonvoy points and status from UK credit cards (June 2022)

There are various ways of earning Marriott Bonvoy points from UK credit cards.  Many cards also have generous sign-up bonuses.

The official Marriott Bonvoy American Express card comes with 20,000 points for signing up, 2 points for every £1 you spend and 15 elite night credits per year.

You can apply here.

American Express Marriott Bonvoy credit card

Marriott Bonvoy American Express

20,000 bonus points and 15 elite night credits Read our full review

You can also earn Marriott Bonvoy points by converting American Express Membership Rewards points at the rate of 2:3.

Do you know that holders of The Platinum Card from American Express receive FREE Marriott Bonvoy Gold status for as long as they hold the card?  It also comes with Hilton Honors Gold, Radisson Rewards Gold and MeliaRewards Gold status.  We reviewed American Express Platinum in detail here and you can apply here.

American Express Platinum card Amex

The Platinum Card from American Express

30,000 points and an unbeatable set of travel benefits – for a fee Read our full review

You can also earn Marriott Bonvoy points indirectly:

and for small business owners:

The conversion rate from American Express to Marriott Bonvoy points is 2:3.

Click here to read our detailed summary of all UK credit cards which can be used to earn Marriott Bonvoy points

(Want to earn more hotel points?  Click here to see our complete list of promotions from the major hotel chains or use the ‘Hotel Offers’ link in the menu bar at the top of the page.)

Comments (99)

This article is closed to new comments. Feel free to ask your question in the HfP forums.

  • Gary says:

    Staying at Royal Hideaway Coral Suites with the kids. Most suites have own generous sized pool/sunning deck. Accommodations beautifully fitted out, has washing machine/dryer (god send when with kids!), good kids club, beautifully maintained public areas. Excellent service but not overbearing. Hotel busy with school holiday’s crowd; however, doesn’t feel rammed. Highly recommended.

  • YC says:

    Surprised to learn that Emyr can match any rate on the ritz carlton/marriott site. I thought his rate is the standard best flex (non-member) rate?

    • Gordon says:

      we have booked with Emyr for Grand Hyatt and Alila Ubud Bali for June this year, 8 nights at Grand Hyatt paid for 6 as got 2 nights Club room free, At Alila paid for 5 nights got 1 free and also got a guaranteed free upgrade on arrival to valley villa above the tree canopy under the Hyatt Prive promotion. Including all the other benefits, So in our case it was a no brainier….Depends on when you book as sometimes you can only get an upgrade on arrival not guaranteed but ours is….

    • Rob says:

      I can’t confirm with R-C, but at Four Seasons he can get any rate. It varies by chain and also by whether it is booked via Virtuoso or the ‘direct’ Preferred Partner route.

  • DorsetFlyer says:

    We have a stay booked in the villas in December via BA holidays. Ended up cheaper than Emyr due to the package discount. (Have used Emyr before for this hotel and he was excellent at arranging gifts/surprises/extras)
    Rhys – Any idea when refurb due to start and finish? Likely to be done by our stay in December?

    • Rhys says:

      It’s being done in phases. The street nearest to El Mirador is going first, and will also feature private plunge pools. Not sure about timelines for the remaining streets.

      MB and a few of the other restaurants are also being refurbished and should be done by the end of summer.

  • iamlost says:

    The RC Asprey toiletries are one of the best nowadays, maybe tied with the Fairmont Le Labo ones.

    • Rhys says:

      My favourites are the EDITION Le Labo ones, and also the W Momo ones.

      • Michael C says:

        Anything from Le Labo is fab.

        Also have a soft spot for Shanghai Tang.

    • 1ATL says:

      Fairmont in Dubai didnt feature LeLabo last week. Some brand called Geneva Green which Ive never heard of. I used to love their signature Le Labo scent from previous visits.

  • 1ATL says:

    Worth mentioning the buggies st Abama are one key fits all so dont be surprised to find yours missing on any given day. Thryre also fitted eith GPS cut off devices to prevent guests leaving the property and popping down to the shops in them (the reason why the devices were fitted!)

    • John says:

      Why not allow it against a deposit / charge?

      • Rob says:

        Wouldn’t want to even think about the insurance issues of letting people who potentially don’t have a driving licence onto public roads in a golf buggy ….

  • Colin MacKinnon says:

    At Heathrow and escalators outside Galleries North are screeching!!

    Wife said: why didn’t they get all this stuff serviced during the Big Lull?

    I said, have you read HfP this morning? Big hotel in Tenerife going to refurbish now the crisis is slackening and the rooms are filling up. Why didn’t they do it last year?

    Do people not remember all the past crises? Things bounce back, so invest in the slump and reap the benefits on the upturn.

    Or if we all die in a nuclear holocaust your business goes up in smoke with bigger debts – so what!

    • Rob says:

      I thought that Gatwick last week when, after a 2 year break, they were still using the same old scruffy trays at security screening.

      Would, you know, have been a handy time to put in the new ‘liquids OK’ scanners that proper airports now have ….

      • haasha says:

        They actually have the “liquid OK” scanners at LGW security, used them last week. Was a breeze to get through without the need to remove liquids or laptop from the bag.

        • Rob says:

          Did they? Don’t remember South Fast Track having it last week, although perhaps it simply wasn’t signed properly (and it was 6am when I went through ….)

        • Gordon says:

          Hang on – Are these “Liquid OK” Scanners linked to BA’s IT system 😬

    • Jeff77 says:

      “ so invest in the slump”

      Even if you have no money coming in/are haemorrhaging cash?

      • Colin MacKinnon says:

        Well, the business I run invested £25,000 on solar PV and a storage battery. Unfortunately I also agreed a three-year fixed price electricity deal nine months ago, so the savings are not as huge as they would now be 😉

        We also dug up the runways and put in new drains during the first lockdown and are now looking at resurfacing our driveway, another 20-25k project.

        But unlike Gatwick or Edinburgh of Heathrow, we have not stripped out every last farthing from the business to pay dividends.

        I suggest the issue with too many large well-known companies is the asset-light debt- heavy model – yet the private equity owners still seem to be able to fund record numbers of deals. So there is cash there.

        Yes, Vigin’s continual existence is a mystery!

    • John T says:

      There was no money to invest.

      I am amazed Virgin Atlantic is still operating.

    • Gordon says:

      Screeching escalators would be the last of my worries, I’d be more concerned that one of the 4 flights that BA have cancelled today because of staff shortages was not mine…..
      The saga goes on….

  • illuminatus says:

    We stayed in Citadel a couple of years ago, and it was a very pleasant stay from every angle.

  • Ladyshopper says:

    Pretty disappointing to read that a luxury hotel can’t deal with catering properly for vegans. It’s not exactly an unusual requirement these days.

    • jj says:

      Vegans are only about 2% of the UK population (YouGov), so probably a considerably more unusual requirement than some religious diets and about as unusual as severe food allergies.

      The number of vegans is almost certainly far lower in Spain than in the UK, so I’m not sure why the hotel would see the need.

      • Ladyshopper says:

        Well, I’m sure Tom from Business Traveller felt the need. A chef who can only serve shaved vegetables to someone is quite frankly ridiculous, especially in a hotel like that. Maybe it isn’t so common is Spain, however presumably they have visitors from all over the world.

        And no, I’m not vegan (although I am vegetarian and gluten free, which is a nightmare in itself).

    • NorthernLass says:

      Even vegetarians weren’t really catered for until a few years ago. You can’t assume attitudes are the same elsewhere as in the English speaking world. Surprisingly though, I noticed on my last 2 trips to Spain that there are many more gluten free and sugar free products available in the Mercadona stores than in UK supermarkets.

      • jj says:

        I don’t think any of the restaurants I’ve visited in Tenerife had explicitly vegan options, and many of the apparently vegetarian dishes have some token cheese scattered around. If you want to travel, you have to eat the local food – although I can see that makes life really difficult for people with allergies.

      • Ladyshopper says:

        Spain in general is regarded as amazing for gluten free. People on the various coeliac groups I’m on are always raving about it! Guess I’ll be testing it out in May, as we’re off to Majorca for 10 nights!

        And yes, I know that veggies aren’t particularly well catered for. I’m kind of expecting to live off GF pasta, pizza and chips when I’m there (as well as salad etc).

        However, and clearly my expectations are wrong, but if I’m paying 330-450 euros per night to stay somewhere, and it has michelin starred restaurants, then I would expect all the chefs working in those restaurants to have better knowledge of cooking than simply serving shaved vegetables! That isn’t even a meal!

        I can understand that maybe putting vegan dishes on the regular menu isn’t something they need to do if they don’t have that many vegan visitors. But someone working in a kitchen of that standard should be able to knock something up surely?

        We cruise for our big holidays, and to be honest, reading stuff like this, I’m glad we do. They are happy to knock something up off menu (and for me that’s pretty much a nightly thing, as it’s unusual to find vegetarian and gluten-free options on menus).

        I’m used to having to be prepared, do research, and even take emergency food with me on breaks (we’re off to Corfu for 4 nights over Easter and will be doing exactly that just in case), but I honestly thought a hotel of this calibre would be able to cater for anything. Seems not.

        • lumma says:

          It would be interesting to know if the vegan diner informed the restaurant ahead of the booking or he surprised the kitchen with the request.

          In my experience of working in fine dining restaurants, the most difficult dietary request was vegan or dairy free, due to the ludicrous amounts of cream and/or butter in each course that the chefs use. Vegetarian is usually pretty simple to adapt as it’s just a case of switching out some proteins (and a clever chef looking after his profit margins will likely already have at least one vegetarian savoury course). Gluten free is usually easy, halal/kosher can usually have most of a pescatarian or veggie menu.

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