Some notes on Chile and Argentina

[AFKAE]

I’ve recently completed a 17 night trip in Chile and Argentina. This is actually the continuation of a Covid curtailed trip 3 years ago. Previously we flew to Buenos Aires, spent 3 nights there travelled to Torres del Paine, the Perito Merino glacier, wine tasting in Santiago and then borders started closing and flights cancelling so we legged it home.

This time we flew BA F to Santiago- I was impressed by hard and soft product, especially Concorde lounge.

Day 1 – free afternoon in Santiago- we’d done a city tour previously so just walked around a local park. Stayed at Pullman Vitacura which is an Accor hotel. Thought it was poor.

Day 2 – flight from SCL to PUQ (Punta Arenas) Sky Airlines-wheretocredit had no answer for miles. It’s a bit like Ryanair of Chile basic, very efficient, new aircraft and minimalist service. All on time. Stayed in Cabo de Hornos hotel which was good. Some reasonable restaurant choices with King crab being a local favourite.

Day 3 – shockingly early start (4.30am) for Whale watching trip with Solo Expediciones. Fortunately the meeting point was a 2 minute walk from the hotel. 50 minute bus trip to the launch point. Catamaran capable of 120 pax had 30 odd on board so we could spread out. It goes via Cape Froward which is the most southerly mainland point of the Americas (there are more southerly islands). I was lurking round the bridge and got invited into a seat next to the captain just as the sun was rising and we passed the Cape. Good fun. Later on saw loads of humpback whales, sea lions and fur seals. Visited a glacier and headed back with more whales on the return.

Day 4 – a lie in with a 6.30am start for a trip with the same company to Magdalena and Marta Islands. Short bus trip south (close to the airport) and boarded a 30 odd seater which was completely full. 40 minutes to Magdalena Island and the Magellanic Penguins. They are just preparing for their migration to the Brazilian coast. I hour walk around the island provided loads of photo opportunities. Back on the boat for Marta Island home of a colony of Sea Lions. Part way across the trip became more bouncy with a very strong current-then one massive bump which threw everyone out of their seats and onto the deck led to an announcement that we would have to turn back!

Day 5 – Two LATAM flights PUQ – SCL and SCL to CJC (Calama in the Atacama desert). As a One World member they had BA type IT and I couldn’t check in online. First flight was a fully loaded 787-9 with them asking for volunteers to move. 2 1/2 hours wait in SCL then 30% full trip to CJC. One hour car transfer to Hotel Altiplanico in San Pedro de Atacama. Pretty good hotel with a slight disadvantage of being a 10 minute walk out of the main street. Seems to be a bit of a backpacker place with loads of hostels, bars and restaurants.

Day 6 – Moon Valley tour. Stunning views of the Andes and some volcanoes. Supposed to be the driest place on earth. Amazing rock formations everywhere. Sunset at the Kari lookout.

Day 7 – Red stones and Alitplano tour. Chaxa, Miscanti and Miniques lagoons. Atacama salt flats and Los Flamencos National Reserve.

Day 8 – El Tatio geyser. 5.30am collection from the hotel. You go early because the geyser is more active when the air temperature is lower. After visiting breakfast prepared on the back of the pick up. Great views all round. Visit Machuca on the way back.

Evening astronomical experience. 10 minute car ride to what seemed like someones back garden! But it was very informative with amazing views of the Milky Way and how dense it is. Lots of the constellations pointed out and very clearly visible.

Day 9 – bus from San Pedro de Atacama to Salta (Arg). The bus was OK, sort of World Traveller type seat and space. But the trip goes on forever. It was late, we got on at 9.30am and got off at 9.10pm. The poor bus fully loaded with people and luggage crawls up into the mountains averaging 25-30 km/hour for over 2 hours. It takes 2 hours to get all the passengers through Chile/Argentina border control. The last hour from Jujuy into Salta is torture with roadworks, heavy traffic etc.

Day 10 – Salta to Purmamarca. Home of the seven coloured hills. Lots more spectacular scenery, we followed the old train route (El tren a los nubes) The train to the clouds. In the afternoon an off road trip (that’s why we were in a 4×4) to the Salinas Grandes (the Great Salt Flat). Hotel La Comerca was fine. It had a spa but we didn’t get chance to use it.

Day 11 – Purmamarca through the Humahuaca valley and back to Salta. Probably the least interesting day of the whole trip. Back to Design Suites in Salta.

Day 12 & 13 – Two day trip to Cafayate. The first day was the scenic 300km route via Cachi which is a lovely village for a lunch stop. Just before Cachi you join Route 40 heading south. The distance markers tell you if you want to stay on the road to the end in Ushaia you only have another 4506 km to go! After Cachi it’s a non tarmac road and fabulous fun in a 4×4. Cafayate is another lovely place a wine producing centre. We stayed at Villa Vicuna an old colonial building. The second day was the more direct route back to Salta via a couple of vineyards including a very pleasant lunchstop.

Day 14 – Salta (SLA) to Iguazu (IGR). Aerolineas Argentinas. Sky Team member, but their IT didn’t allow crediting of miles to Virgin-probs a bit too soon. Hotel Mercure. Very disappointing restaurant-didn’t seem to have inherited any French skills in their cooking.

Day 15 – Brazilian side of the falls. You have to cross into Brazil but there is a tourist lane at the border so you can zoom past the commercials and taxis returning to Brazil and Paraguay having filled up on cheap fuel. At the visitor centre there’s a shortish bus ride to where the trails start. It’s easy walking on the 1200 metre trail. It was busyish, but not at all uncomfortable and no problem to get lots of good photos. As you would imagine loads of wonderful views of the falls.

Day 16 – Argentinian side of the falls. Similar visitor centre and a train ride to the Devils Throat (the most impressive part of the falls). Again a short walk on elevated platforms. There are then two other trails to follow offering lots of other varied views. Back to the airport for another AA flight from Iguazu to Buenos Aires city airport. Hotel Pestana on Avenido 9 de Julio. Basic but OK. 30 minute walk down to Puerto Madero for dinner.

Day 17 – Club world back to LHR day before the strikes start.

[Aston100]

Lovely report, thank you.

[JDB]

@AFKAE fantastic trip report that should inspire many! We have just spent three weeks in Cafayate and already planning for next year. That road via Cachi and Molinos (both interesting towns) from Salta is amazing, climbing up through the green valley to the top at around 3500m then the red sand of the cactus national park on the other side and eventually into the Cafayate via the spectacular Quebrada de las Flechas which, like the Quebrada de las Conchas you must have travelled though to return to Salta, offers lots of great hiking opportunities.

[AFKAE]

JDB wrote:

@AFKAE fantastic trip report that should inspire many! We have just spent three weeks in Cafayate and already planning for next year. That road via Cachi and Molinos (both interesting towns) from Salta is amazing, climbing up through the green valley to the top at around 3500m then the red sand of the cactus national park on the other side and eventually into the Cafayate via the spectacular Quebrada de las Flechas which, like the Quebrada de las Conchas you must have travelled though to return to Salta, offers lots of great hiking opportunities.

Yes we went through both Quebrada de las Flechas and las Conchas. It seemed like we needed to stop every few metres for another photo opportunity. I can understand spending lots of time in Cafayate, it really is a relaxing place.

As you say the road is fabulous with areas where the roadside is bordered by huge cacti.

[Strilen]

Thanks for fantastic report. Seems you had a great exploration expedition!

[Colin MacKinnon]

Thanks.

And +1 for Cafayate.